I read in a previous issue about an aluminum housing for the A833 manual transmission, but cannot find it now. could you please let me know the name of the company that builds those housings?
You can find the housings and any other four-speed stuff you need by contacting Passon performance. Jamie has been working with Mopar transmissions for longer than I can remember. contact him at Passon Performance, 309 Turkey Path, Sugarloaf, PA 18249; 570/401-8949; firstname.lastname@example.org. check out their web site, passonperformance.com.
My dad and I just bought a '67 Dodge Dart with a 383. We got tired of just watching cars at the dragstrip and wanted to race a car too! After we bought it, the guy told us it should be a 12-second car. We took it to the track as it was; on the first run the throttle cable broke, and after an hour to fix it, on the second run it ran a best of 14.30 at 93 mph, shifting at 6,200 rpm. It didn't break up or anything going through the rpm range even at 6,000 rpms. We were shocked it ran so slow. It didn't even break loose the little BFGoodrich street tires coming off the line. The 383 is bored 0.060-inch over, but it's supposed to have 11.5:1 forged pistons, with SpeedPro rings gapped to allow a 175hp shot of nitrous. It has a high-volume oil pump, bronze valveguides, and a hydraulic flat-tappet Crane cam with 324-degrees advertised duration and .552-inch lift, with 108 lobe separation, and a power range from 3,500-7,000. It has stock valvetrain. The heads are 906s, which have been ported and polished mildly. It has a 1050 Dominator sitting on top of a 2-inch spacer and a single-plane Team G intake. It has MSD 6AL ignition with a MSD Pro-Billet Distributor set to 28-degrees advance coming in at 2,000 rpm. The engine is coupled to a 727 reverse manual-shift transmission that has a stock 2,000 stall converter, which is rotating 4.30 gears with limited-slip. It has headers going to 3-inch exhausts with Pro-Flow mufflers. It's a dog on the street. We are getting tired of it being such a slow big-block Dart. So we thought downsizing carb and putting a dual-plane intake on it will give it back some torque and possibly drop our times a little bit. We bought an 850 Mighty Demon carb with annular boosters and an Edelbrock Performer RPM dual-plane intake. Before we could do anything, we noticed extra vibration in the car when it was idling, and after a water test on the headers, we noticed the number-six cylinder wasn't firing. We pulled the spark plug, and it was wet. We left it out to dry, and then we put it back in, fired it up, and it still had the vibration, so we shut it off quickly. We pulled the valve cover off and noticed the number-six cylinder exhaust side rocker wasn't moving at all. Someone suggested a collapsed lifter, so we took all the rockers off, then we used a magnet to pull the exhausts side lifter out; it wouldn't come all the way out of the lifter bore. It feels like there is a ring surrounding the bottom of the lifter. Do you think it's a cam lobe that has flattened, or is the lifter just mushroomed out? Should we rebuild it? We are going to do a cam swap, and we want a cam that has an excellent idle to it, but you can feel the rumble of the engine. This car is a street/strip car, but mostly strip with an occasional street drive. We want it to leave hard off the line and pull hard on the big end. We have two cams that we are trying to decide on. They are by Comp Cams and are hydraulic flat-tappet. The first one is Comp Cam's Exterme Energy XE284H, and the second one is Comp Cam's Magnum series cam, 292H. Which one should we go with, and why is there a big difference in power ranges?Willis via e-mail
I hate to be the one to break it to you, but you are going to be in for a full rebuild. The cam is wiped, along with the lifter. There is going to be metal debris through the whole engine, and it will all need to come apart and be cleaned spotless. You will probably need new bearings, since the metal would have chewed them up, and sometimes even the pistons can be ruined by imbedded metal debris. You have to check everything with a finetooth comb, and even take apart the oil pump, and clean out the housing and rotors. I cannot overemphasize the need to get everything cleaned, including all the oil galleries. I hate to think of the possibility, but the vibration say's there can be mechanical damage somewhere inside. Yup, time for a full rebuild.
If they can be saved, you'll need to identify your pistons and calculate the compression ratio. With a mainly strip car with a large cam like you are looking at, you'll want to push it up to around 10.5:1 to 11.0:1. You are going to have a hard time getting much more than 9.5:1 with a flat-top piston and an open-chamber 906 head. With more compression, one of the Comp cams you are considering, and the single-plane intake, you'll have a fairly well-matched combination. The 1050 Dominator was really overkill on your previous 383 combo and probably will be when it goes back together. An 850-cfm 4150 carb like you have purchased will be just about right, even run on the single-plane intake. As far as the rated rpm range of the cams, I don't put too much faith in those numbers. they are very broad ballparks at best and usually pretty arbitrary, especially when comparing cams.
I'm pretty sure the giant hydraulic flat-tappet cam (in duration), the Dominator carb, and almost 10-degrees too little total advance were the main reasons your Dart was so slow. The engine probably does not have anywhere near the compression it needs, unless the pistons have domes. The wiped-out cam was just the final nail in the coffin. This is becoming more of an issue with flat-tappet cams. I suggest breaking the cam in with GM EOS additive, Shell Rotella motor oil, and a set of low-tension (stock) valvesprings. Make sure the engine is set up so it fires right away when cranking, and then run it between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for about 30 minutes, making sure you don't overheat it. Then remove the valve covers, inspect the works, and install the recommended heavier springs matched to the cam. This might not have been what you wanted to hear, but you can fix it and make it better than ever.
After 12 years, I am finally putting my '69 Dodge Charger on the road. It has a 318 engine with a stock 2-bbl. carb, dual exhaust, with later '80s-style (not magnum) manifolds. The transmission is a 904, and although it works well, will be rebuilt next winter with an aftermarket torque converter. The rearend gear ratio is 3.23:1, and I have fairly large 15-inch tires. The engine has a Pertronix electronic ignition kit.
What I am interested in is some bolt-on performance goodies that would give me the most bang for the buck. I already have an older LD340 intake manifold that I thought about matching with a 1405 or 1406 Edelbrock carb and one of their performer camshafts. I like Edelbrock's performance systems, since everything is designed to work together, as opposed to just throwing on a bunch of aftermarket parts and hoping they work. I was told the LD340 manifold's inherent port misalignment to my heads would not make it my best choice. I was told to use the newer performer 318/360 manifold with a 500cc Edelbrock carb, but wouldn't the ports on that manifold also be a mismatch? I like the idea of matching the intake ports.
What about an older 318 Streetmaster intake or a SP2P 318 intake? I can get either one of these for a reasonable price from a buddy of mine. I realize the Streetmaster is a single-plane, but I understand it is good for low-rpm power, which is what I am looking for. I know the heads on the 318 limit its power-making potential, but I do not want to get into swapping heads at this time. I am looking for a reliable street cruiser that I can take the wife and kids out for ice cream or have some fun with while I am out cruising the local musclecar hangouts. What torque converter would you recommend? The car will not see the track.Glenn Richter Adams, NY
It seems the emphasis of your question is on the intake manifold since you are already decided on the heads, Edelbrock cam, exhaust manifolds, and ignition. You also state you like the idea of matching the intake ports, and, as you know, the LD 340 has bigger ports than your 318 heads. The Performer intake works well on a mild 318, and the port size is quite close to 318-size. They are actually quite a bit smaller than the stock 360 port window, but will be close with a 318. The Streetmaster uses small runners and a necked-down plenum. This is an obsolete design, not as good for torque as a two-plane intake, and it will give up power at the top end due to the small ports. That said, the Streetmaster is better than the SP2P for a performance application, since this intake is a very small-port, two-plane design and is very restrictive. The Performer is the best compromise given your constraints. I would go with a 600-cfm carb. I would use a converter with a rated stall of about 2,500 rpm. Headers would be a big help, unless you are married to the manifolds. this and a good dual-exhaust system would be the biggest bang for the buck.
I have a '78 360 four-barrel engine from a truck, which I have been gathering parts for to build an LA/Magnum hybrid. So far I have purchased the windage tray kit, passenger-car oil-pan kit, high-volume oil pump, Magnum heads, and porting templates, Magnum head bolts and conversion pushrods from Mopar. What I need to know is what compression ratio I will end up with by simply dropping the Magnum heads on the stock short-block and using a .028-inch head gasket.
This motor will go into an M-Body cop car with 2:94 sure grip and 904 with shift kit. I would also like your opinion on cam choice. I would like to retain the stock valvetrain. however, I am looking more for low- and mid-range torque than high-end horsepower. I would also like to limit rpm to 5,500. Small tube 151/48-inch headers, a 211/42-inch exhaust, and dual mufflers will be used. My cam choices would be Mopar's .430/.450-lift cam or Comp Cams' .447/.455 Xtreme Energy. What do you think?PaulVia e-mail
Overall, for a low-buck but effective combo, I think you have a pretty good combination. The Magnum heads have a much smaller combustion chamber at around 60 cc, compared to about 70 cc for the original 360 heads. It's pretty hard to give an exact compression ratio number without measuring everything, since these engines varied some in piston deck height, but for a basic 360 of that vintage, the compression ratio was around 8.2:1. Making the changes you plan to would raise that to around 9.3:1, which is a very useful gain. This alone makes the Magnum heads a worthy swap, but there are other advantages. When comparing stock heads, the Magnums will also flow more, and the Magnum valvetrain will give you 1.6:1 rockers for more lift. Overall, if you are sticking to stock, unmodified pieces, your plan is definitely a good one.
As far as the cams, these cams are pretty close, though the Comp will make a little more power and torque because of the higher lift and faster valve action. You should double-check the retainer-to-guide clearance, but generally the Magnum heads will work fine when using just a little over .500-inch lift, and you will be at a maximum of .485 inch with the Magnum's 1.6:1 ratio rocker arms. Remember, you will need a Magnum-style intake manifold because of the different bolt pattern on the heads. Edelbrock's RPM AirGap is a great manifold for this application. Your M-Body will be an animal on the highways with that gear ratio and this 360 combination.