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Magnum Under Glass

Making a good-looking Dakota look better with a fiberglass hood from Cervini’s Auto Designs
February, 2009
By Randy Bolig
Photography by Randy Bolig
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This ’99 Dakota R/T looks... 
   
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This ’99 Dakota R/T looks sharp enough, but the owner wanted a racier look. Below is the result; just imagine what this thing looks like staring at you through the rearview of a rice-burning compact.
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Unplug the underhood light... 
   
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Unplug the underhood light to remove the hood.
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Next, remove the nuts holding... 
   
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Next, remove the nuts holding the hood to the hinges. Have a buddy help you with this, or you may accidentally ventilate the cab with the steel hood via the windshield.
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Whenever using fiberglass... 
   
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Whenever using fiberglass parts, make sure they fit before they’re sanded or painted; once modified, they cannot be returned. Billy and Mike (Mike is the Grizzly Adams–lookin’ fella) at Dallas Automotive carefully fit-install the hood to make certain it is correct before any prep work takes place. With no problems found, the hood is then baked in the paint booth for approximately one hour to get it ready for paint.
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With the hood primered, Damon... 
   
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With the hood primered, Damon wet-sands it using 320-grit sandpaper to smooth any small imperfections and give the topcoat a rough surface to adhere to.
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Next, the hood is placed top-side... 
   
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Next, the hood is placed top-side down and cleaned underneath with a solvent to remove any oil or silicones. Just a touch with a fingertip will ruin a paint job by not letting the paint stick, hence, you get “fish-eye.” Damon masks the outer edges of the top side of the hood to prevent overspray.
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Moments before the hood gets... 
   
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Moments before the hood gets painted, it is wiped off with a sticky rag called a tack cloth to remove any dust that may have settled on the hood. The gas-filler door is removed to computer-match the paint. The manufacturer’s paint code is listed on the body, but if the paint is old, it may be faded and the new paint may not match the old paint.
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With this little gizmo, Damon... 
   
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With this little gizmo, Damon can mix any factory shade of paint. He programs the manufacturer’s code and the computer tells him exactly how much of each color to use to get the desired shade. Is this a complete shop or what?
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The paint is poured into the... 
   
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The paint is poured into the spray gun through a strainer to filter out dirt, and Damon begins the real work. Altogether, the bottom receives three coats of paint. The heated paint booth makes the process go quickly and smoothly.
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After the three coats of red... 
   
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After the three coats of red have been allowed to dry for a short period of time, he mixes a batch of clearcoat to cover and protect the red. It is then baked at 160 degrees for about 45 minutes so it can be turned over. The bottom is done first. Once dry, the top also receives three coats of red and clearcoat and another hour in the booth curing.
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The old hood is turned upside... 
   
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The old hood is turned upside down on foam-covered stands so the grille can be removed. First, remove the seven nuts that hold the grille to the face of the hood.
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Since Billy is a professional,... 
   
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Since Billy is a professional, he has all the tools. If you don’t have one of these handy-dandy moulding removal tools, you can get one at your local auto supply house. If you are careful, you may be able to use a pair of pliers. Simply pull off the rubber hood-to-radiator support seal and save it for the new hood.
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There are three braces off... 
   
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There are three braces off the grille that run back on the hood. Each brace has two bolts in it. Take all six bolts out and be ready to hold onto the grille so it doesn’t fall.
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The new hood is placed on... 
   
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The new hood is placed on the supports and the grille is installed. At this time, simply start the bolts in the brace; do not tighten them. After you have the brace bolts started, install the seven nuts on the face of the grille and tighten them. Once you have tightened them, tighten the brace bolts. Now you can install the hood latch using the supplied bolts. Don’t forget to put the hood-to-radiator seal on.
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Next, simply “pop”... 
   
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Next, simply “pop” the underhood light loose from its bracket and remove. When you have the light removed, take the bracket off the old hood by removing the screw. When you install the bracket on the new hood, be sure to use the supplied screw or you will chip the gelcoat.
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Billy and Damon install the... 
   
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Billy and Damon install the new hood on the Dakota and check the fit before shutting it tight for the first time. You may need to make some slight adjustments to the latch mechanism to ensure a solid latch.
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When you are sure you have... 
   
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When you are sure you have the hood where you want it, adjust the bumpers at each end of the hood opening so that they just touch the hood to prevent it from vibrating.

The term bolt-on usually conjures up images of a large hammer adjusting something to bolt it on; in the case of our Cervini hood, bolt-on meant just that. The clean, simple installation is straightforward enough that even a novice mechanic can handle it in his or her backyard; the careful paint match is the only job you might want to farm out. If you’ve thought about making a change to ’glass over your own Magnum, follow along and see just how simple it really is with the help of Cervini’s Auto Designs.

Cervini’s Auto Designs
3656 N. Mill Rd.
Vineland
NJ  08360

www.cervinis.com
Dallas Auto Body
2915 Swindell Rd.
Lakeland
FL  33805
(863) 683-8860

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