Bolt-On Brakes

Removing the brakes requires pulling the axle shafts. On an 8 3/4 rear, as our Duster was equipped, the axle just unbolts at the bearing retainer and slides out. The 81/4- or 91/4-inch rears require opening the differential cover and pulling the differential gears to remove the axle retaining C-clips.

Slide the axle out, supporting it so that the rough shaft doesn't drag across the inner axle seal.

The most troublesome part of removing the stock drum brakes can be disconnecting the parking brake cable. The backing plates have to be stripped of the brake shoes. Slip a small hose clamp over the loose end of the cable to compress the locking barbs where the cable goes through the backing plate. Tightening the clamp will unlock the cable.

The axle housing's end studs need to be knocked out. Swap them with the longer replacements in the kit.

Since we were changing to the big bolt pattern, we ordered a set of Moser axles. With track time and running slicks in the cards, it's a worthwhile upgrade.

The caliper adapter goes over the longer housing end bolts. Insert the caliper bracket bolts into the adapter brackets before bolting them in, since they won't clear the axle shaft flange once the adapters are in place.

Next, install the provided spacers, the dust shields, and the caliper bracket.

Slip the rotor in place and bolt the caliper to its mounting bracket. Check the alignment of the caliper to the rotor. The caliper should be centered over the rotor. If it's not, correct the alignment with shims.

Install the pads, the supplied brake lines, connect the stock parking brake, and the job is done.

Here's something you won't see in any car built in the last decade--front drums. Pop the dust covers, pull the cotter pin, unscrew the spindle nut, and the drum comes off.

Remove the four bolts which secure the drum to the spindle and the entire brake assembly comes off as a unit.

The lower rear bolt actually threads into the spindle, while the other three bolts just slide through and are retained by the nuts. For the conversion, the threads in this hole need to be removed by drilling with a 1/2-inch bit.

The beefy caliper adapter is threaded, and receives the bolts from the rear to attach solidly to the spindle.

SSBC's front kit comes complete with new wheel bearings. Make sure they are properly packed with quality disc-brake wheel-bearing grease.

The front rotor, as with the rear, is a ventilated 11-inch piece with an integral hub. It fits onto the stock drum brake spindle with a machined spacer installed behind it.

A large four-piston fixed iron caliper is standard in SSBC's conversion kit. Optional upgrades include their "Force 10" aluminum calipers. The pads slip in easily from the top.

Connecting the supplied hose to the stock retainer bracket required enlarging the mounting hole to fit the hose end.

Installing the SSBC discs turned out to be a quick and simple swap.

The small drum brake master cylinder should be swapped for the larger SSBC replacement. Disconnect the pushrod at the pedal (manual brake cars only). Unhook the lines, unbolt it, and it's out.

The replacement cylinder is much larger and familiar-looking.

To tune the system, SSBC supplies an adjustable proportioning valve. It adjusts to vary the amount of pressure decrease to the rear brakes to prevent premature rear brake lock. Plumb it at the rear brake outlet of the stock combination valve and dial it in so that the rear brakes do not lock before the fronts.