We don't think anyone will argue that even with perfect paint, a restoration doesn't really shine if the trim still looks beat up. We've long been able to repair or replace most anything that's painted, but chromed, stainless, and aluminum trim is a different story. Their shiny surfaces are as unforgiving to flaws as some of the show judges out there. If it's not perfect, someone will spot it. So, what are you to do?
You can't run down to your local dealer and buy new parts anymore. You already know that you can't buff it out. It may look OK from across the street, but up close your trim has scratches, puckers, pits, and dents. Is there any way to restore these parts? If so, how do you know whom you can trust with these priceless parts?
To help us get to the bottom of this issue, we contacted George Iverson, owner of Iverson Automotive in Minnetonka, Minnesota. George started restoring trim for himself in 1970 and made it his full-time business in 1985. We've seen his work on a number of award-winning Mopars, and he agreed to share his experience with us.
Mopar Muscle - Is N.O.S. the best way to go if you can get them?
George Iverson - To many, N.O.S. is the Holy Grail of auto trim. people think because the part has never been on a car, and might still be in its original packaging, that it will look and fit perfectly . . . not necessarily so. First, there is the issue of shelfware. After a couple decades of being knocked around from place to place and carried to who knows how many swap meets, many, if not most, parts will need at least some repair. I've taken dozens of parts out of the original packaging that had dents, scratches, and pits (photo 1). Be especially cautious of online descriptions of chromed and aluminum parts that have a few minor scratches that can be "easily buffed out." If it is so easy, the seller would have already done it and described the part as show quality. the truth is, chromed and anodized aluminum parts cannot be buffed out.
All the major car makers used multiple suppliers for their trim parts. Not all the parts were perfectly identical. Parts from one supplier may be a little different from another. On the assembly line, parts were pulled from a bin, briefly inspected, and then attached to the car. If a part did not look good or didn't attach quickly and correctly, it was tossed into a rejection bin. The line workers didn't have time to mess around with a stubborn part. These parts were then repackaged and sold to dealers as replacement parts for collision repair. While not all N.O.S. parts were flawed or rejected by the factory, many were, and I would guess that most of the really good ones are used up already. My recommendation is simply this: whenever possible, use the part that came on your car. It will fit the best, and restoring it will probably cost less than buying another part-especially N.O.S.-and paying for it to be restored.
MM - You mean to say that even a small scratch can't be buffed out?
GI - Not with anodized aluminum and chrome-plated parts. A chrome-plated part is copper and then nickel-plated first, and the final chrome plating is actually very thin. If you try to buff out a scratch in a chrome-plated part, chances are you will polish right through the chrome and expose the nickel, which has somewhat of a yellow cast to it. The nickel will then oxidize quickly, and, even if you polish the nickel to match the chrome, within a few days it will change color again. To remove any scratch from a chromed part, it must be replated, not buffed out.
The same goes for aluminum parts. Nearly all aluminum trim parts are anodized from the factory. The only reason for this is to protect the part from oxidizing. Anodizing creates a hard, nonflexible finish. Any scratch on an anodized-aluminum piece is impossible to buff out. The entire piece must be completely stripped by soaking it in a solution of caustic soda, and then the part can be sanded and polished for a uniform finish.