One thing that doesn't come with the hood and adapter is the actual air filter element itself. A complete assembly from K&N is recommended, but when we ordered it, we asked for the wrong one. The one we ordered had a four-inch tall filter, which interfered with the cowl-a two inch tall, 14-inch diameter filter is required, so we made a trip to the auto parts store due to deadline constraints, rather than waiting for the proper K&N unit to arrive. We've seen K&N units make more power on the dyno, so one will be going on in place of the white paper element shown. Another addition will be K&N's Extreme air filter lid, which is actually a flat, round filter with a flange around the outer perimeter that replaces the conventional steel lid. It not only allows more air in, but it lets it go through the top and straight into the intake, rather than making the bends from the sides like a conventional air cleaner. It's tailor-made for hood scoops!
 This is the underside of the...  This is the underside of the Good Hood from Keystone. Notice that it's "finished" just like the top of the hood. We ordered ours with functional cold air induction, hence the cut-out. Non-functional hoods are solid underneath. This is why we didn't re-install the underhood insulation. |  The mounting bolts are molded...  The mounting bolts are molded in at factory locations in both back corners of the Good Hood. |  Nutserts are also pre-installed...  Nutserts are also pre-installed up front for the hood latch mechanism. |
 This is the only difficulty...  This is the only difficulty we encountered: the leading edge of the sheetmetal hood, where the grille attaches, is sheetmetal-thin. The same edge on the fiberglass Good Hood is considerably thicker, so the attaching screws on our grille didn't come all the way through. Had we read the instructions thoroughly, we'd have known that the grille mounting studs need to be removed and replaced with supplied fasteners, making the next step unnecessary. |  Here Jos is using a die-grinder...  Here Jos is using a die-grinder to carefully thin the mounting stud area on the hood. He did this for every hole that attached the grille, and it solved our non-problem. Always read the instructions first! |  After removing the grille...  After removing the grille and grille support from the factory hood, bolt the grille, sans support bars, to the Good Hood first. |
 Next, attach the grille support...  Next, attach the grille support frame to the grille, but don't bolt the support to the hood yet. |  After making sure the grille...  After making sure the grille lines up with the outer edge of the hood, attach the grille support to the hood using the mounting holes molded into the hood. |  Next, we removed the weather...  Next, we removed the weather seal from the front of the factory hood for transfer to the Good Hood. |
 The Good Hood doesn't come...  The Good Hood doesn't come equipped with the mounting holes for this seal, so we laid it in place and transferred the hole locations with a pen. |  Jos centered the holes with...  Jos centered the holes with a drift punch so the drill bit wouldn't walk on the smooth surface. |  The holes were then drilled...  The holes were then drilled through the underside panel. There is an air gap between the inner and outer skins. That old saying "let the drill do the work" was never more true than it is here: Go slow and don't push the drill through. If you bust through the underhood panel, you can hit the back side of the outer skin, which will leave a spider web crack on the top of the hood for all the world to see. |