With the rear frame of the...
With the rear frame of the car planted firmly on jack stands, lower therearend so the stands support the weight of the car. The jack remainsunder the rear to help in the axle removal.
Last month we discussed the rearend buildup of Project Valiant Effort, wherein we fitted our boneyard 8-3/4 rear (a replacement for the original 7-1/4 rear) with taller gears and an automatic locker. With either rearend configuration the 360, which will ultimately sit up front, will have no problems leaving rubber signatures at the stoplight. The 7-1/4, however, would only be able to handle that kind of activity for a short time. With the 8-3/4, the durability issues are corrected (hopefully), and since we are planning ample quarter-mile blasts in the Valiant, we wanted to solve the problem of body flex as well.
Several aftermarket companies offer weld-in subframe connectors to minimize body flex. The problem is that most of these kits require cutting the floorpans, with the connector protruding into the passenger compartment. This presents a difficulty for rear seat passengers, and makes carpet installation a problem.
If you have access to a mig welder, a less-intrusive subframe job can be accomplished in your driveway. If you're uncertain of your welding skills, you may want to have an experienced welder handle the subframe installation for you.
 Unhook the emergency brake...  Unhook the emergency brake cables and the rubber brake line above therearend. Remove the U-bolts and drop the axle assembly. |  It's easy to see why the 8-3/4...  It's easy to see why the 8-3/4 will hold up better than the original 7-1/4 unit under heavy-hitting torque applications. |  Before you bolt an 8-3/4 in...  Before you bolt an 8-3/4 in place of a smaller axle assembly, keep in mind that the axle tubes are bigger and, as this picture shows, the spring plates and U-bolts must be similarly upgraded. Fortunately, our 8-3/4 came with plates and good U-bolts. |