Part 5: Traction Action - Improving Our Valiant's Grip

With the new rear supported by the jack, slide it into place and bolt itin. Don't forget to reconnect the brake line and emergency brake cables.

We obtained a loaner set of wheels and tires from a friend. Being255-70-15s, they're a bit tight for our purposes, but adequate formoving the beast around the shop.

Since we now have a rearend that can take whatever we throw at it, we'llneed to address body flex. Unibody cars are notorious for twisting whenheavy horsepower and serious traction upgrades are applied. We went tothe local welding shop and bought two pieces of 1/8-inch thick 2x2square tubing that were 44 inches long. The cost was a mere $12.50.

Fit the square tubing to the front frame area, hold it against the rearframerail, and mark where you need to cut for the connector to fitinside the rail. Here you can see the portion that will be trimmed off.

After you cut the framerail, but before you weld in the connector, makesure the connector is as far up into the framerail as possible. Itshould rest against the floor at the rear frame. Also, do not cut theopening too large; the connector should fit snugly into the framerail.

The front of the connector should also be tight against the crossmemberbefore any welding begins.

With the connector properly positioned, it's time to weld. Remember thatthese welds will receive significant stress under aggressive drivingconditions, so your welds must be solid. Completely weld around theframe where the connector is inserted into the rear framerail, as wellas around the front of the connector. For added insurance, some piecesof plate steel can be welded at the front where the connector meets thefront frame.

When you have completely welded in your connectors, give them a goodcoat of primer and paint. Now, bolt on those slicks and hit the track.