Part 3: Sure Footed Flyer

(above & right) When we unbolted the bottom of the shock absorber, extraction of theshock necessitated the removal of the lower control arm, as the shockcan't pass through the top. Before the control arms can be removed, theball joints need to be separated, and the torsion bar and sway bar mustbe disconnected. Remember to separate the sway bar on both sides, asundoing only one end will cause it.

While attempting to remove the lower control arm on the passenger sideof the vehicle, we discovered the nut on the bolt holding it in placewas tack welded to the bolt. This discovery prompted us to check thedriver side, where we found the same scenario. Was this a normalpractice by the factory on police cars? Removal of the nuts damaged thebolts, forcing us to replace them.

Prior to unbolting the upper control arms, we removed the upper balljoints. The uppers in this case are of the screw-in variety, requiring aball joint socket and an impact wrench. The bottom ball joint would haveto stay in place until we removed the lower control arm, as they are ofthe press-in variety.

The steering link requires a puller to properly separate it, limitingthe possibility of damaging the pieces.

Our lower control arms required modifications to the shock mount, as ournew Koni shocks employ an eyelet in place of a bolt-through stud.

(above & right) We made the necessary cut to clear the bottom of the shock and drilledthrough the side of the lower control arm for a grade-8 bolt. In thenext installement, we will box the lower control arms for strength.

With both the upper and lower control arms removed, we went on adegreasing binge. This is your only opportunity to strip these parts andpaint them, so take your time. When the paint is dry, you can move on topressing in the various bushings, bump stops, and lower ball joints. Ashop press proved invaluable.