We soaked our Comp roller lifters in engine oil before installing them. This ensures adequate oiling to all the needle bearings when we fire the engine for the first time. | 
The main limitation of a stock block is the two-bolt main construction. We're using a Chenoweth main stud girdle to give our main caps extra strength on a separate axis. This will limit the "cap-walk" associated with high-rpm drag racing motors and should help keep our bottom end tight for multiple seasons of racing. | 
ARP head studs will help clamp our cylinder heads to the block. We consider head studs mandatory on any engine exceeding 12.5:1 compression. |
We've found that head studs, combined with Cometic multilayer steel-coated head gaskets, will seal the cylinders as well as if we had installed O-rings, and without the machining costs associated with O-ringing the block and heads. | 
We're using a Comp Cams double roller timing set to spin our cam. After degreeing the cam, we always install a cam button to prevent the camshaft from moving forward in the block during high-rpm/high-load conditions. | 
NHRA rules dictate that we utilize an SFI-approved harmonic balancer. We've had great luck with Fluidampr brand balancers in the past, and they meet the SFI specifications. The Fluidampr also has a standard Chrysler bolt pattern for the pulleys in case we want to run an alternator or other accessories in the future. |
We always file fit our piston rings in a race application; this allows us to vary the ring end gap allowing for the engine's cylinder pressure and intended use. We chose Speed Pro piston rings for this build. | 
We utilized Comp Cams roller rockers for our big-block as they combine roller bearings on the shafts with roller tips for accurate valve timing. Lash was set at the recommended .026-inch intake and .028-inch exhaust. We'll experiment with different lash settings at the track to optimize this combination. | 
In an effort to save weight and maximize cooling efficiency, we'll use a Mopar Performance water pump housing combined with a Milodon high-volume aluminum water pump. |
Even the oil pan bolts have a torque specification, which is all the more important since the oil pan studs will also be supporting our Chenoweth main girdle. It is important to always use an accurate torque wrench when assembling an engine. | 
The final step to building an engine is to always prime the oil system using a priming shaft as shown here. This fills all the oil galleys and builds oil pressure in the engine prior to start-up. Our priming shaft is actually the intermediate (oil pump) shaft from a Ford 302 that we spin counter clockwise with a drill. | 
With the engine complete and oil system primed, we've dropped in the MSD distributor and bolted on the motor plate and coil. Having the completed engine on the stand should encourage us to finish the car so we can go racing. Be sure to stay tuned to future issues as we complete our bracket racer and head to the track for some testing. |