Using new U-bolts, bushings,...
Using new U-bolts, bushings, and hardware, we bolted our new Strange 60 in place. We're using Mopar Performance Super Stock leaf springs for our build; Mopar has these springs in several rates depending on the weight of your car.
Unlike factory Dana 60s, the...
Unlike factory Dana 60s, the axle tubes of the Strange 60 are completely welded to the center section. This prevents the tubes from twisting under high loads.
In the interest of saving...
In the interest of saving money, we used factory Chrysler 11-inch drum brakes on our rear, so Strange manufactured it to accept factory brakes. If rear disc brakes are more your style, Strange can accommodate you by placing the proper tube ends on your housing.
For maximum chassis tuning...
For maximum chassis tuning ability, we used Strange double-adjustable race shocks in the rear. These shocks will bolt to factory locations, but a spacer must be used on the bottom to prevent the adjuster from interfering with the lower bracket.
Huge 1350-series universal...
Huge 1350-series universal joints were used because of their durability. U-bolts, instead of straps, were utilized on the rearend yoke because of their superior strength.
Using an angle finder on both...
Using an angle finder on both the driveshaft and the mounting pad for the pinion snubber, and subtracting the difference, we found the pinion angle.
Leaf-spring cars usually require...
Leaf-spring cars usually require between four and eight degrees of positive pinion angle (nose of the pinion toward the ground) to hook up properly off the line.
To adjust the pinion angle,...
To adjust the pinion angle, tapered shims were used between the leaf spring and the pad on the housing. These shims are available in various angles from Summit Racing Equipment and are fairly inexpensive. For our application, we used a 2-degree shim to achieve a pinion angle of 6 degrees.
Another key rear suspension...
Another key rear suspension component is an adjustable pinion snubber. As the rearend tries to rotate under acceleration, the pinion snubber engages the floor, forcing the rearend downward and improving traction. Always set the pinion snubber with the cars weight on its wheels, leaving about 31/44 to 1 inch of space between the rubber snubber and the car's floor.
With the back half of our suspension installed in our project car, we're a little closer to making it to the track. Be sure to follow future issues as we'll continue our project by installing the engine and transmission, front suspension and brakes, wire and plumb the car, lighten it up with fiberglass body parts and polycarbonate windows, then finally finish up the interior. We're still a long way from the track, but each step is getting us closer. The car is just about to achieve "rolling chassis" status and that should help motivate us to quickly complete our bracket racer.