1. The original fuel tank in "The Slick Challenger" has been leaking at the seam and seals (pickup and filler neck) since 1988. The stock fuel system might have been sufficient for the bone-stock 340, but not for our incoming stroked 416 engine.
2. You will need to cut a hole in the fuel tank, so precautions should be taken to make sure that you don't hear a loud BOOM. Since out tank was shot we needed a replacement, so the BOOM wouldn't be an issue. Our new tank and pickup/sending unit was ordered from Year One. Notice where the yellow 31⁄4-inch hole saw is. It's marking the only place available for us to drill the hole to install the Phantom fuel pump. The pump must be installed at the deepest part of the tank away from the pickup/sending unit float and the filler neck tube.
3. After drilling the hole with the 31⁄4-inch hole saw, we noticed a vent tube that would be in the way of the yellow foam baffle/basket assembly. The tube was cut with a hacksaw blade to provide clearance for the pump's unique baffling system. We should have ordered a 1970 Challenger fuel tank without the EEC vent tubes. The Phantom pump has its own vent, so there's no need to get a vented tank.
4. With the installation-ring template held in place, we used the included No. 2 drill bit and drilled one of the bolt pattern holes. We put one of the two supplied screws into the drilled hole while holding the ring template in place. Then we drilled the second hole 180-degrees across for the second screw to help hold the index ring template in place to drill the remaining eight holes.
5. We removed the installation/index ring, and used a die grinder with a sanding roll to clean up and deburr all the sharp edges. The fuel pump mounting/retaining ring was inserted to be sure the studs aligned with the newly drilled holes for proper fit.
6. A thorough clean-out of the tank was done before we went any further. We measured the depth of the tank and used that distance to determine the installed height of the fuel pump and foam baffle/basket assembly. Our Challenger tank measured 11 inches.
7. The yellow foam and black plastic baffle/basket assembly needs to be 1 inch longer than the tank depth to preload the foam both for density and positioning. Measuring at 12 inches, we didn't need to cut the foam.
8. The pump hanger assembly bracket is measured and will need to be 1 inch shorter than the measured tank depth. This will provide clearance for the white fuel pump strainer (pre-filter).
9. We unbolted the pump hanger and cut 11⁄4 inches from it. The fuel pump was thenpositioned on the hanger bracket so that the bottom of the white fuel-pump strainer (pre- filter) is equal to the tank depth (11 inches in our case). Be sure to tighten the clamps and attach the wiring connector to the pump. The white corrugated line is for the fuel return.
10. During trial fitting we noticed the pump housing wasn't sitting level. We flattened the raised area with a hammer and dolly. After that, the billet pump housing sat level on top of the tank. Notice the retainer studs are sticking out of the housing at the same length (roughly 1/4 inch).
11. Trial fitting the tank with the pump in place revealed the pump housing was interference fitting with the trunk floor-support. With a die grinder and cutting wheel we cut out a notch in sub frame rail. We also used our trusty hammer and dolly to raise that area of the trunk pan for additional pump housing clearance. Aeromotive suggests that the pump housing does not rest against the trunk pan.
12. With the tank fitted, the trunk floor area was wire brushed and cleaned with Eastwood's Pre Paint cleaner. Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator will prevent rust from starting on the E-Body's original trunk pan for years to come. We followed up with Gator Guard (pickup truck bed liner) to add strength, protection and sound deadening to the trunk pan.
13. We placed the installation ring template over the retaining ring studs protruding through the tank top. The yellow foam black plastic baffle assembly was compressed then inserted through the installation ring into the tank. Once the baffle assembly was in the tank, we manipulated it until it was centered with the opening. Notice the yellow foam is on the outside parameter of the installation ring. The thick gasket up top will work with tanks with up to 1⁄4-inch deep ribs. Unfortunately our tank has deep 1⁄2-inch ribs.
14. The assembled fuel pump assembly is eased into the tank. If your tank's area is flat or has ribs less than 1⁄4-inch, then you can install the pump. Rotate the billet fuel pump assembly as needed to orient the fuel (feed and return) and vent lines and electrical connections. Aeromotive says that in extreme cases like ours, when corrugated or oddly shaped areas of the tank do not allow a sufficient seal, fuel resistant sealant such as Dow Corning 730 RTV can be used to seal the gaps. Install and tighten the provided lock nuts and plastic washers in a crisscross pattern. We painted the tank with Eastwood's Tank Tone.
15. The tank was reinstalled with the electrical and fuel lines connected. We routed the feed and return fuel lines in the same location as the factory. The original fuel line bracket bolts were reused for the Adel clamps to hold the AN-08 braided stainless steel fuel lines securely in place. The vent hose (5⁄16-inch) routes to a roll-over valve (we purchased online) mounted above the tank and between the shocks. Not seen is the Aeromotive in-line fuel filter on the feed (pressure) side hiding behind the rocker panel.
16. We're mounting the Aeromotive regulator on the fuel log at the carburetor, rather than on the fenderwell or firewall. The front 180-degree is the feed (pressure) line, while the 90-degree (bottom of the regulator) is the return line. When the engine eis ready, we'll be using Holley's Ultra HP 850 in Hard Core grey/black.