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Installing A New Vinyl Top - Vinyl Top Re-BopInstall A New Roof Skin In Your Driveway From the December, 2002 issue of Mopar Muscle By Steve Dulcich Photography by Steve Dulcich
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For our '71 R/T, we tapped... For our '71 R/T, we tapped Year One for a vinyl-top kit PN KT157BLK. Made in the original Boar grain fabric with 46 1/2 inches between the dielectrically sewn seams, it's a dead ringer for original equipment. The top was laid over our Duster so the sun could soften the material and ease any shipping creases. Lightly ironing the material from the backside will accomplish the same result. Though rarely seen on new cars today, in the musclecar era, vinyl tops were a popular option. By the mid-'70s and into the '80s, however, the attractive vinyl top had degenerated into a bloated excess of gaudy padded landau, disappearing shortly afterwards in shame. Many of the classic Mopar body styles, on the other hand, looked great with a fabric-covered roof. Our '71 Charger R/T left the factory wearing a Boar grain vinyl top in basic black. It nicely complements the sweet lines of the Charger, contrasting with the GY-9 paint, and enhancing the stripes and hood blackout. Our top had been replaced 10 years prior, and while it was still in good shape, minor surface rust in the roof was starting to lift the fabric at various points below the vinyl covering. Since we're in the process of a minor rebuild on this car, replacing the top was on our to-do list. So, the old top was peeled off to find the source of its troubles. Poor prep under the old top consisted of a rough sanding of the original glue, and a shot of cheap lacquer primer. The porous primer was lifting, and the vinyl top was losing its grip to the roof as a result. Fortunately, the rust was only in its formative stages, with most of the problem stemming from the lacquer primer peeling from the steel of the roof. We stripped and treated the entire roof, and applied several coats of epoxy primer to create a solid base for a new top. The roof of the Charger was... The roof of the Charger was masked off to prevent getting glue on the paint. The old top and trim had already been removed, the glue stripped off, and the roof shot with PPG epoxy primer. Corrosion can be a problem under a vinyl top, so it is important to have a clean, rust-free, and well-protected surface. New vinyl tops are cataloged by Year One for most any muscle-era Mopar. We called in for a replacement and were surprised to find that an authentic reproduction top can be purchased for little more than the cost of a cheap aftermarket "universal" top. Other than the authentic grain and seams, there are other big differences between these tops and the typical upholstery shop special. The top we received from Year One was constructed much like the original-made from a heavy-weight vinyl of the correct grain, with a thin cloth backing. Most "replacement grade" tops come with a soft felt filler backing, which lends a puffy look to the top-quite different from the factory-delivered product. Year One's top for the '71 Charger comes fully assembled, including the seams around the lower edge of the rear window, while most replacement-grade tops come with a separate strip for this area, which needs to be sewn on. Installing a vinyl top is a finesse job. In fact, Year One strongly advises a professional for the installation. We feel like pros around here, so we weren't daunted; quite a few installs over the years help build confidence. Unfortunately, Bolig wasn't in town to lend a hand when the time came to get it done. The install should be considered a two-man job, at least during the initial placement. Front to back, the replacement took an honest day's work, but the quality good looks are going to be around for years to come.  The centerline of the roof...  The centerline of the roof was accurately measured and marked at the front and rear. This was vital to getting the top installed in the correct position, with the seams evenly spaced at each side.  Likewise, the top material...  Likewise, the top material was folded in half and the centerline marked.  To prep for installation,...  To prep for installation, the top was laid over the Charger's roof. We lined up the centerline marks and adjusted fore and aft to establish the correct positioning.  After sizing up the positioning,...  After sizing up the positioning, it was time to break out the glue. We have used contact adhesive in a paint gun in the past, but this time went the easy route with trim adhesive in a spray can. Our local autobody supply jobber sold us a can of DAP High Strength Spray Adhesive, a brand used by the local trim shops, although 3M and other manufacturers have equivalent products. The fabric was folded back over itself, and one half of the main roof panel was sprayed with a thorough and uniform coat of adhesive.  Both surfaces needed to have...  Both surfaces needed to have glue applied for the adhesive to bond, so the top material was also given a coat. With adhesive on both surfaces, the top bonded to the roof on contact.  Fold the loose half of the...  Fold the loose half of the top over the bonded section, apply adhesive, then bond it like the first half. The position has already been set, so the second side is much easier.  Make sure the centerlines...  Make sure the centerlines are in exact alignment, and pull the top down tautly to the roof. The material will bond immediately, so positioning is critical before bringing the material in contact. Start at the center, working outwards to the corners of the roof. Two or more helpers make the job easier, but it was done solo here. Avoid pulling the material up and adjusting the position more than absolutely necessary, since lifting usually causes the glue to lift from the roof, compromising the bond. Another pitfall of repositioning is the adhesive will bead up, with the wads of glue creating lumps that will show through the material. Position it exactly in the right place the first time it makes contact.  A small wheel was used to...  A small wheel was used to work the material firmly into the roof-gutter channels. Make sure there is enough adhesive in this area to provide a firm bond.  The C-pillars were next. The...  The C-pillars were next. The procedure was exactly the same as for the main roof section. When spraying the adhesive on the loose section of top material, place some masking paper under it as shown to keep overspray off the finished roof. The adhesive can be difficult to remove.  Unlike earlier cars, the '71...  Unlike earlier cars, the '71 Charger's vinyl top extends behind the rear glass. This area was bonded next. The excess material was then trimmed to within one inch of the window channel. The rear glass was out of the car during the installation.  The last areas to bond were...  The last areas to bond were the A-pillars. We had the windshield still in the car, but removed some of the sealant around the glass so the top material could tuck deeply into the channel.  With the bonding done, the...  With the bonding done, the next step was trimming. The best tool for the job was a sharp razor blade. First, we trimmed near the roofrails, trimming to the lower edge of the rail. This area got capped with a stainless steel strip.  Trimming around the perimeter...  Trimming around the perimeter needs to be done accurately so the material is well secured but doesn't show beyond the trim. The trim is less than 1/2-inch wide, so there isn't much room for error. The best approach is to mock up the trim pieces into position and mark the edge. The material was then cut to 1/8-inch inside the marked lines.  After trimming the vinyl,...  After trimming the vinyl, the top moldings were reinstalled. We purchased all new trim clips from R/T Specialties.  The moldings always go together...  The moldings always go together in a sequence. On the '71 Charger, it started at the quarter windows, then the long side strips, followed by the trim around the base of the rear window.  The roof gutter molding hooked...  The roof gutter molding hooked over the top, and the lower edge rolled over the channel.  The top material needs to...  The top material needs to be trimmed carefully around the pegs for the windshield trim moldings. Again, we got all new clips from R/T Specialties.  The completed top looked perfect,...  The completed top looked perfect, although the front windshield trim would have to wait to have a few dings bumped out and polished before we'd install them. Besides the money saved, the best part of installing the top ourselves was not having to load the rolling chassis onto a trailer to get to an upholstery shop.
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