To remove the glass, we first...
To remove the glass, we first took off the reveal moldings. The moldings are delicate, and we've seen a lot of them trashed by trying to remove them with screwdrivers or claw hammers. There are a few specialized tools available that make molding removal easy, the most common being the "arrow-style" hook (middle). We ran this tool under the molding at a 45-degree angle until a clip was contacted. Then, one of the pointed ends was hooked behind the clip, and the tool was rotated to release it. The scissors-style tool we used grips the clip from both sides and releases it without trauma. Sometimes the reveal molding is bonded by excess sealant, making removal difficult. To avoid destroying the molding, spray 3M release agent under the moldings to help loosen the sealant's grip.
Farly Mopars almost exclusively used a formed rubber gasket to seal in the front and rear glass. In 1970, Mopar musclecars with bond-in glass appeared with the debut of the E-Body platform. The following year, the redesigned B-Bodies got bonded-in glass, and this was to become the norm for autos manufactured to this day. While glass installation is catered to by the replacement industry, it isn't too difficult for the do-it-yourselfer to handle. We were freshening up our '71 Charger R/T, and one of the jobs on our list was to reinstall the rear glass. As is common with an older project car, there was more to the job than the slash-and-drop replacement, common to late-model commercial work. We were able to take our time to completely clean and refinish the rust-prone window channel, replace the damaged molding clips, and take care of the details in ways that aren't typically attended to in a standard on-the-clock replacement. Here's how it was done.
There are a number of techniques...
There are a number of techniques for removing glass, including cutting it out with piano wire run under the glass, or using a windshield knife with a hooked blade. While butyl rubber sealant is relatively easy to cut through, with old Mopars you never know what you may find in the glass channel. Glass glued in with a silicone gasket-maker can be tough to get out, and all we can advise is to use patience not to damage the glass. We've even had to chisel out glass glazed in with bondo!
Before the glass installation...
Before the glass installation can begin, the window channel must be clean of all the old sealer, and any rust needs to be repaired and/or treated. Any bare metal should be sealed with a good epoxy primer to prevent future corrosion. Our '71's window channel was in great shape. Now is the time to make sure the reveal-molding clips are intact and in good condition. We replaced all of ours with a kit from R/T Specialties.
We applied 3M Windo-Weld primer...
We applied 3M Windo-Weld primer in the flat of the channel, where the sealing ribbon will lie. The primer is a sealer and adhesion promoter designed to fuse tightly to the butyl rubber sealing ribbon.
To set the gap at the lower...
To set the gap at the lower edge of the glass, a pair of rubber positioning blocks are set in the bottom of the channel for the glass to butt-up against. Our 3M glass-installation kit came with the sealing ribbon as well as a pair of blocks. The blocks are spaced about a foot in from each end of the lower channel.
We picked up a 3M PN 08612...
We picked up a 3M PN 08612 Windo-Weld auto-glass-install kit at a local glass shop. The kit comes with ribbon sealant, which spaces the glass to the right level for the reveal moldings to sit flush. Just roll it out onto the ledge of the glass channel. With the primer painted on, the ribbon will bond instantly in place, so position it with care. We started at the top center and worked our way around the opening.
Although installing glass...
Although installing glass can be a two-man job, it can be done solo. Once the glass is laid down, it will bond and can't be readily repositioned. To help get the placement correct, mark the exact centerline of the glass, as well as the exact centerline of the window opening on the car.
Align the lower edge, centering...
Align the lower edge, centering the glass, and rest the edge against the positioning blocks to set the gap around the channel. With this, the position of the glass is set. Finish by lowering the glass to the top edge. A suction cup is helpful here. Press the glass edges firmly into the ribbon to seal it.
Though the ribbon will provide...
Though the ribbon will provide a weather-tight seal, the channel should be completely filled with windshield sealant to prevent standing water in the channel. Commonly available urethane windshield sealant can be used, as it has made butyl rubber sealant obsolete.
Our vinyl-top-equipped '71...
Our vinyl-top-equipped '71 Charger uses a unique reveal molding at the rear glass which is embossed in the pattern of the top, and is factory painted black to match. We mixed up a batch of black acrylic enamel with flattening agent to match the original shade.
Installing the reveal moldings...
Installing the reveal moldings finishes the job. Line them up with the edge against a clip. A sharp jab with the palm of the hand should be all it takes to lock them in.