2008 Dodge Charger RT Hemi Shaker Scoop - Fresh Air Funnel Upgrade

At this point, the washer nozzles snap back in their holes, plumbed with new kit-included hoses. Meanwhile, the hood insulator pad is being cut into two portions, per kit instructions.

Using the kit's 3M pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) tape, the inner trim ring is secured around the perimeter of the main cutout. You can see that one side (the driver's) of the cut hood insulator pad is also in place. The other side remains off until the hood goes back on the car, in order to connect the rest of the washer plumbing. Once the trim panel is securely taped in place, four holes are drilled around its perimeter (and only through the inner hood skin) through which push-pins secure it and the hood insulator blanket to the inner hood.

Next, it's time to turn to the underhood work, where, after the plastic engine cover is popped off its ball mounts, the air box lid and rectangular filter (neither of which is re-used), along with the air box itself, come off. The airbox will receive some modifications and be re-used.

The plastic factory airbox is trimmed to fit the adapter tube of the kit's conical air filter, and drilled to accept the adapter tube's integral, small-diameter PCV tube. Details and a trim template are in the kit. By the way, when ordering, you'll be asked whether your Charger is a regular R/T, has the Road/Track Performance group, is a Daytona, or an SRT8, as there are detail differences in the kits for each.

Next, the outer trim ring is bonded in place, using the same double-sided 3M tape. If you have any doubts about this tape's bonding abilities, put your mind at rest; the OEMs use it all the time to permanently affix moldings, etc. Note that the trim ring has a nice matte, textured finish.

As mentioned, the kit's engine cover/Shaker base is shipped with its metal support structure bolted in place. The support is first separated from the Shaker, then is bolted to the fuel rail attaching points using the factory ball-stud fasteners. The oil cap has been removed to allow the engine cover to seat properly (the oil fill port is taped over simply to avoid having anything drop inside.)

Here, the modified airbox is back in the car, with the conical filter hidden beneath the kit's new airbox lid. The smaller lid allows an opening (at the inside rear corner) where the air duct filled by the Shaker scoop will feed cool, ambient air to the inlet.

Next on is the engine cover/Shaker base, which gets secured to its metal support by four bolts. Notice the rubber hoses dangling from the base. These are drain tubes, and there are five of them in all, to make sure any rainwater that gets inside the frontal openings of the scoop flows harmlessly to the ground. The orientation of the oil and transmission dipstick tubes is altered slightly to clear the cover.

Next on is the engine cover/Shaker base, which gets secured to its metal support by four bolts. Notice the rubber hoses dangling from the base. These are drain tubes, and there are five of them in all, to make sure any rainwater that gets inside the frontal openings of the scoop flows harmlessly to the ground. The orientation of the oil and transmission dipstick tubes is altered slightly to clear the cover.

Here's the finished underhood installation. Notice how the corner of the Shaker base that houses the integral air duct tucks into the open area of the airbox we pointed out in a previous photo. It is functional and cool. Rumor has it there are even "Hemi" badges available on the internet that might look nice on the flat, beveled surfaces of the base, over top of the heads. Just a thought

Once the hood is bolted back on, and the windshield washer lines are reconnected, the passenger side of the hood insulator pad is push-pinned back in place.