Rather than send it back to the junkyard, we decided to sleeve and rebuild our tired aluminum-case 833, making it bulletproof in the process. Sleeving the case isn't the place for meatball surgery. The case needs to be bored out to precise size, and more critically, in the precise location to pull this off successfully. This means a Bridgeport mill and someone who really knows how to use it to get the case prepped; a lathe with some experience behind the handles to whittle out a pair of precision-sized bushings is a must as well. As for the rebuild part of the job, servicing the overdrive trans is pretty much the same as with any 833: The usual replacement wear parts are the bearings, seals, gaskets, thrust washers, and syncro brass. The hard parts are just reused if they pass the eyeball test. Want an Ali-cased 833 that lives? Make friends with a machinist, break out the wrenches, and follow the photos.

Torque Specs
833 overdrive four-speed
Pinion bearing retainer30 lbs.-ft.
Extension housing bolts50 lbs.-ft.
Shift lever nuts18 lbs.-ft.
Trans to bellhousing50 lbs.-ft.
Shift cover15 lbs.-ft.

Bushing Bash
Whatever the reason behind the production aluminum-cased overdrive 833's sloppy, loose-fitting case-to-countershaft clearance of .005 inch, the bottom line is that under any kind of punishment, it's a ticking time bomb. It's only a matter of time before the case pounds itself apart and it's over. Bushing the case is the single biggest improvement to beef-up one of these trannys. It won't equate to the brutal 18-spline Hemi four-speed's strength, but we're talking seriously increasing the odds of survival in performance street applications. Bushing the box is a precision machining operation that involves boring the case to accept the sleeves and turning out a set of precise bushings in a lathe.

The basic working specs for the repair bushings on this tranny starts with sizing the inside diameter (I.D.) of the bushing for zero clearance with the countershaft. The bushing outside diameter (O.D.) was machined to 1.25 inches, with a step register .100-inch larger than the basic outside diameter (to 1.35 inches), .100-inch long, machined on one end of the bushing to locate it in the case. One bushing requires a notch for the countershaft key and both need notches at the inside edge corresponding to the slots in the thrust block face inside the case; otherwise, it'll be impossible to assemble the transmission.

The tranny case was bored for a .005-inch interference fit with the bushing, with a corresponding relief cut .100-inch deep, and 1.365-inches diameter to accept the locating register in the bushing. It's critical that the centers of the bored holes in the case are precisely located in order to keep the countershaft parallel, in line, and at the correct clearance to the mainshaft gears. A few thousandths out, and either the trans won't go together or the countershaft won't drive in. In this case, we indexed the center off the unworn portion of the countershaft bore closest to the mainshaft. Finally, make sure good machinist practices are followed, all of the edges are chamfered, and all measurements are dead-on. Hey, if a magazine guy can do it himself, it shouldn't be too tough to find a real machinist to handle the job.

West Oaks Dodge
P.O. Box 7267
3839 Automall Dr
Thousand Oaks
CA  91359
Mopar Performance
Brewer's Performance Inc.
2560 S. State Rte. 48
Ludlow Falls
OH  45339