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Upgrading OE Clutches To McLeod Performance Parts - Clutch Can Horse TamerUpgrading OE Clutches With Performance Mcleod Parts From the February, 2002 issue of Mopar Muscle By Steve Dulcich Photography by Steve Dulcich
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There are two key requirements to a daily driver: It has to be reliable and always ready for action. My "low-buck" '69 Dart, originally a 273/automatic, is now running a warmed-over 318 and overdrive four-speed. Unfortunately, it has recently been a case of "once bitten, twice shy" as far as swapping-in junkyard components are concerned. First, the junkyard OD four-speed turned out to be toast, so it had to be removed and rebuilt ("Overdrive Overhaul," Mopar Muscle, Oct. '01). Second, the junkyard clutch cover out of the F-Body donor car and a Cheap-O Autoparts replacement clutch disc were useless. Though the cover looked like new and the disc was replaced, the clutch simply wouldn't hold torque. An off-the-line dump would smoke the clutch, not rubber, and one-two power shifts would break the clutch so loose it wouldn't catch without lifting. Though the clutch chattered violently on engagement, the Dart would still get down the road, but when handling impromptu street action, it was seriously handicapped. Delicate movement on the clutch and rolling starts were enough to handle the average contender, but crunch time came when confronted by a 2,600-pound Mercury Comet (Maverick style) sporting a hot Ford small-block. It was as fast as it was ugly. The pull in First gear was bumper to bumper, but counting down the revs as the tach neared seven grand, I knew the gig was up. Slamming Second, the clutch was smoked, and so was my Mopar. The time had come to lose the junk. It was time to step up to... It was time to step up to performance clutch hardware in the Dart. The junkyard trash went back into the dumpster to make room for a steel flywheel, a Borg and Beck/Long pressure plate, a dual performance clutch disc, and a fresh throw-out bearing, all from McLeod Industries. We tapped McLeod Industries for the serious hardware. McLeod manufactures the broadest ranges of performance clutches in the industry, with a reputation for quality. We figured with their extensive product line, they would have a clutch component combination well matched to the Dart's requirements. Moreover, the raw truth is that "routine" 6,800-rpm shifts with the stock flywheel and junkyard OE clutch were attended by nervous thoughts of a metal-and-flesh-sawing clutch explosion waiting to happen. First on the shopping list was a new McLeod SFI-approved steel flywheel. The next decision was the pressure plate style. McLeod offers a full range of covers, including the stock Borg and Beck type, the diaphram style, the Long type, and McLeod's unique Borg and Beck/Long hybrid. Borg and Beck's come with a 6.0:1 finger ratio and increased holding power comes from a combination of spring-load and centrifugal-assist rollers. The centrifugal assist varies with the number of rollers. Adding rollers increases the centrifugal assist, but the downside is B&B clutches lock up at high rpm. More rollers lock up at a lower rpm, making high-speed shifting difficult or impossible. Hemi cars came with three-roller B&B clutches rather than the six-roller design used in other big-blocks for this reason, and cheap rebuilder's B&B pressure plates often have all of the assist rollers removed.  Replacing the clutch in an...  Replacing the clutch in an A-Body requires removing the transmission from the bellhousing, taking the bellhousing off the engine, then changing the clutch components. Though a lift would have been nice, we did the job at home with the car up on jackstands. The driveshaft was unbolted and removed first.  Up inside, the shifter and...  Up inside, the shifter and linkages have to come off.  Back underneath, the speedo...  Back underneath, the speedo cable, the reverse light wires, the clutch linkage, and the clutch cover plates come off to free the transmission for removal.  We rolled a floor jack under...  We rolled a floor jack under the transmission to support it while the crossmember was unbolted and removed. An old A-Body disc brake rotor (minus hub) was bolted on in place of the jack's saddle cup to give the jack a large stable platform for a makeshift transmission jack.  The transmission is held to...  The transmission is held to the bellhousing by four bolts. Getting to the hard-to-reach top ones is made easy by lowering the jack to get some angle on the drivetrain for access and using a wobble extension on the rachet.  The bellhousing bolts are...  The bellhousing bolts are kind of tight to the firewall, but are easily accessed from underneath with a wobble extension by lowering the rear of the engine. Make sure a jack underneath supports the engine while the transmission is out.  Our tranny also hung up on...  Our tranny also hung up on the exhaust pipes, so we had to remove them to clear. We had been running a set of 340 exhaust manifolds on the 318 since our headers got crushed going through a road construction area. We decided to add headers now anyway while the car was laid up for the clutch job. With the pipes clear, the transmission slid right back and out.  With everything clear, the...  With everything clear, the clutch, then the flywheel are unbolted and removed. This stuff gets heavy when working in an awkward position under the car, so take care when the last bolts are removed.  However, we didn't expect...  However, we didn't expect to see the large chunks of clutch facing ripped right off the disc. Gee, I wonder why it chattered so badly? The lining was worn down to the rivets. The question was, with no bite or durability, what material did they use to make the lining on this thing, cardboard? As we said, this clutch was... As we said, this clutch was used hard, and after only a few months it was completely haggard. The heat scoring on the pressure plate was an obvious sign of the slipping we were all too aware of. Diaphragm clutches are much lighter in pedal effort for a given clamping force, have no centrifugal effect, and don't use ridged release levers, using flexible spring-steel levers instead. Generally, the diaphragm clutch is considered too delicate for full competition use. On the other hand, Long pressure plates have a quicker-releasing 4.8:1 lever ratio and is the preferred style for true competition use. Long's operate through a combination of static and centrifugal clamping, gaining centrifugal assist directly from weighted levers imparting the additional clamping load. Since the conventional Long cover won't fit in a Mopar application, this is where the McLeod Borg and Beck/Long fills the gap. The McLeod B&B/Long combines the operational features of a Long clutch in a heavy duty B&B-style hat. Though the Dart isn't a race car, with the way it's continually hammered on, a B&B/Long was the choice for our application. The McLeod B&B/Long pressure plate will accept either a 10.5- or 10.95-inch disc on a common Mopar 10.5-inch B&B bolt pattern flywheel. The last choice was in the clutch disc. Again, McLeod offers a wide range of discs, from street replacement types to iron-faced, to multi-disced street/strip and race units. We consulted McLeod's tech line and let them pick the disc for our combination. We went with a No. 260821 Dual Performance 10.95-inch disc, which features a combination of Kevlar(tm) and asbestos facings on the flywheel and pressure plate sides, respectively. Though it's a high-performance disc, the marcel layer under the friction lining provides a smooth take up. Rounding out the parts list was a new throwout bearing, which comes from McLeod already installed on a new slide collar. The McLeod components bolted-up with the ease and fit of OE replacement parts, but on the road the Dart's new clutch setup bites like no OE clutch ever could. The performance grip was there, but what really got our attention was how smoothly the performance clutch engaged and disengaged. Off-the-line chatter is nonexistent with this combo for silky-smooth starts in normal driving. Sidestep the clutch, on the other hand, and the bite is right now, setting the tire ablaze. Okay, Comet dude, bring it on now....  The flywheel was also showing...  The flywheel was also showing signs of damage, not just heat glazing and scoring, but some serious-looking heat cracks riddling the surface. It may clean up with machining, but that new steel wheel comes with a lot of peace of mind.  The new McLeod SFI certified...  The new McLeod SFI certified flywheel just bolts in place of the old one. We used LockTite on the bolts and torqued it to 55 lbs.-ft. Notice that we have our new headers in place here: a set of tti 1 5⁄8- to 1 3⁄4-inch step pipes. These tuck up much tighter than our old headers, so they aren't as likely to get torn up on the street.  The McLeod B&B/Long clutch...  The McLeod B&B/Long clutch and disc bolt in just as easily as the OEM components; no tricks here. Just pull the clutch cover down against the disc with the bolts, bringing them down a little at a time against the pressure plate's spring tension in a criss-cross pattern until the cover is seated. Then torque the 3⁄8-inch attaching hardware to 30 lbs.-ft. Again, we used LockTite. Make sure a clutch alignment tool or an old input shaft is used to center-up the disc while the clutch is being installed; otherwise, the trans will never go in.  Next, the bellhousing was...  Next, the bellhousing was bolted on, and we rigged a dial indicator to check the runout of the bellhousing pilot bore. We have a special clamp, which mounts to the pressure plate, but a regular magnetic base can be used if the bellhousing is mounted without the clutch installed. Make sure the indicator is centered in the bore and at a right angle to the surface for an accurate read. Read the indicator while the crank is spun through a full revolution, and note the runout. McLeod recommends a maximum runout of .008 inch (the total indicator reading is double the runout or .016-inch TIR max here). We were within specs at .006-inch TIR. If correction is required, Mopar Performance has an offset block dowel package under PN P4120383. The bellhousing should also be checked for parallelism by rigging the indicator to read off the transmission-mounting surface just outside the pilot hole. The max here is .006-inch total indicator reading. Correction for parallelism error is by blanchard grinding the bellhousing (the best fix), or using shimstock between the housing and engine block (it will get the job done).  With the clutch installed...  With the clutch installed and everything checking out, the transmission can go back in. The shift fork and throw-out bearing should be loaded into the bellhousing and the transmission input shaft threaded through and into engagement with the clutch. The trans has to be lined up to go in, so work the jack to align the transmission square with the bellhousing. Some long bolts (arrow) or studs in the mounting holes will help line things up. If the splines on the trans' input shaft don't line up with those of the clutch, the transmission will hang up about 1 1⁄2 inches from all the way in. Insert a yoke in the output side of the trans, put it in gear and turn it until the splines line up. Never try to squeeze the transmission to the bellhousing by pulling it on with the mounting bolts.  With the transmission bolted-up,...  With the transmission bolted-up, reinstall the crossmember, shifter and linkage, driveshaft, clutch linkage, and the minor hookups. Clutch adjustment is accomplished by measuring the amount of clutch departure, or the clearance between the disc and the pressure plate/flywheel. While an assistant depresses the clutch fully to the floor, the gap between the flywheel and the disc is measured with a feeler gauge. McLeod recommends .050 inch for a B&B/Long clutch like ours, .040 inch for a regular B&B, and .030 inch for a diaphragm clutch.  Clutch adjustment is made...  Clutch adjustment is made at the threaded pushrod between the bellcrank and shift fork. Wind the adjustment nut out, increasing the pushrod's effective length to increase departure or shorten the effective length to decrease clutch departure. Once it's set, replace the clutch housing's cover plates, and burn rubber, not disc.
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