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 With the subassemblies out,...  With the subassemblies out, it's time to blow them apart. It's all bolts and snap rings. Keep all of the related parts together, especially snap rings and thrust washers, since they are selective in thickness to set the internal clearances.  Removing the front clutch...  Removing the front clutch piston springs requires compressing the spring retainer to get the snap ring out. Some C-clamps can do the job, but we made this fixture to compress the spring retainer evenly, so that it doesn't distort or bend.  B&M's kit doesn't include...  B&M's kit doesn't include bushings, but we picked up some from a local rebuilder's supply. Bushing kits are inexpensive, but some of the smaller ones are tough to remove without the right gear. We used our cam bearing installation tool from Powerhouse to R&R the larger bushings. We tapped and threaded the smaller ones to pull them out, and made makeshift drives to drive the new ones in.  All the parts were cleaned...  All the parts were cleaned in solvent, blown dry, and painstakingly inspected for damage or critical wear. Everything looked good, so we were ready to rebuild. If hard parts are worn or damaged, most tranny shops have boxes full of core parts.  Reassembling the servos is...  Reassembling the servos is made easier by using a clamp to compress the pistons.  The output shaft support needs...  The output shaft support needs to be knocked back in. To ensure that the bolt holes will line up, install some bolts to serve as alignment dowels before banging it home.  Since they were cheap, we...  Since they were cheap, we picked up a new set of overrunning clutch rollers and springs from a local transmission parts supplier, rather than reuse the old ones. Make sure the outer cam is firmly anchored in the case, and undamaged. The cam is factory-staked in the case and should be tight, as should be the set screw (arrow). There are kits available to bolt in this assembly as a failsafe.  The extension housing is located...  The extension housing is located next to the output shaft assembly with a large snap ring, which keys it to the output shaft's bearing.  The low/reverse band, drum,...  The low/reverse band, drum, and planetaries are reassembled and loaded onto the output shaft. Take care that the thrust washers go back in their respective locations. If everything is correct, the end of the shaft will have just enough room to take the snap ring while maintaining the specified endplay. If the endplay is slightly out, a selective snap ring of a different thickness can be purchased from Chrysler or a well-outfitted tranny rebuilder to get it within specs. If the endplay is way out, something isn't in the right place.  The front and rear clutch...  The front and rear clutch packs were rebuilt with the B&M friction discs and steels, then readied for reassembly. The two clutch packs are nested together, then lowered as an assembly into engagement with the front annulus gear and drive shell. Getting the clutch pack to drop in place is easiest with the tranny upright.  The front pump is reassembled...  The front pump is reassembled and lowered back into the case. It should be test-fitted without the seals or rings to verify the input shaft endplay. If it checks out, load the kickdown band assembly behind it and bolt the pump housing in place. As with the output shaft support, some bolts used as dowels will help align the pump with the case.  The endplay is checked by...  The endplay is checked by rigging a dial indicator to the front of the input shaft, and pulling the shaft in and out, noting the change in indicator reading. This should be verified again after the final assembly of the front pump housing to the case.  The B&M instructions give...  The B&M instructions give specs for band adjustment, which varies depending upon the apply lever ratio. We used the 5.0:1 lever supplied in the kit in the front (kickdown) band. Rear bands are typically backed off two turns after tightening the adjuster to 72 in/lb (snug).  The Transkit also comes with...  The Transkit also comes with all the parts found in the B&M Transpack shift kit, allowing the valvebody to be modified for "H/D," "Street/Strip," or "Track-Only" levels. We performed all the mods to B&M's "Street/Strip" specs and then bolted the valvebody back in.  Once installed back in the...  Once installed back in the car, we juiced our fresh 727 with a load of B&M's new Synthetic formula Trick Shift ATF, and shift trick it did! Time to hit the streets.
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