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Installing Gear Vendor Units - Four Plus One Equals A Highway CruiserAdding A Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive To An 833 From the October, 2003 issue of Mopar Muscle By Randy Bolig Photography by Randy Bolig
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Begin by draining the oil... Begin by draining the oil and removing the shifter and linkage and the driveshaft. It all started in October 2002, when I drove the Valiant to Bristol, Tennessee. In case you're counting, that's a lot of miles with the little 360 dutifully holding the tach needle at 3,500 rpm. The trip was fun, with the radio faintly jamming under the screaming engine. Somewhere around Atlanta, Georgia, I decided something needed to be done. I got to thinking (Since the cotton in my ears kept things from leaking out, I had no better use for the old noggin), How would a Gear Vendors unit work in this thing? The Gear Vendors unit offers a .78 to 1 (22 percent) overdrive ratio, and that will effectively reduce fuel consumption, engine rpm, and, oh yeah, a lot of noise from that rpm. Another option with GV is the ability to split each shift. For example, you can start in First gear, then hit the GV button and have First high. You can then hit the button and shift to Second after the rpm has reached the point of shifting, and then hit the GV button. Theoretically, splitting each shift of the four-speed like this gives you eight speeds from a four-speed tranny. Rearend gearing affects the split-shift theory dramatically. With the tranny on the bench... With the tranny on the bench next to the GV intermediate housing, you can see the difference. You can also see how much longer the entire assembly is. We had Lakeland Driveshaft shorten and balance our driveshaft. For our application, the total length of the needed driveshaft is 31 inches from the universal joint, center-to-center. I decided to take the plunge: I called Gear Vendors and told them what I needed, and about a week later, the box-o-goodies arrived. However, as soon as I opened the box, I hit my first glitch. The intermediate housing that connects the under/overdrive unit to the tranny was for a long-tailshaft B- and E-Body transmission. Gear Vendors said they use the longer tailshaft to get more clearance between the GV unit and the floor. It sounded logical, because due to drivetrain angles, the farther back the unit, the lower it becomes. The problem is the A-Body-transmission output shaft is shorter than the B- and E-Body shaft, necessitating a longer output shaft for the tranny. Also, the output-shaft bearing in the A-Body tailshaft housing is a 307 bearing, while the B- and E-body tailshaft housing uses a 308 bearing. To fix this minor glitch, I called Passon Performance in Sugar Loaf, Pennsylvania. If you decide to put a GV unit in your A-Body and you have a long-tailshaft B- or E-body tranny lying in the corner, problem solved. GV is aware of the situation and is exploring possible remedies. By the time this story makes it to print, they will probably have the problem solved. I'm glad Jamie at Passon Performance didn't get upset with the numerous phone calls he received from me, as this was my first time tearing a four-speed tranny apart. After the service I received from Gear Vendors and Passon Performance, I highly recommend them both.  Remove the side cover, exposing...  Remove the side cover, exposing the gears inside.  Next, remove the six bolts...  Next, remove the six bolts holding the tailhousing on, and slide the housing and output-shaft assembly out of the tranny. Don't panic when the needle bearings in the input shaft fall out; just make sure you don't lose any of them.  (A) After you pull the output...  (A) After you pull the output assembly out of the tranny, pinch the snap ring that holds the assembly into the tailshaft. The screwdriver points to the location of the snap ring behind the First-speed gear. (B) Pinch the snap ring, and pull the assembly out of the housing.  You need a pair of snap-ring...  You need a pair of snap-ring pliers to remove the three snap rings holding the gears on the shaft. The first snap ring (shown) comes off to allow the removal of the First-speed gear and the stop ring.  After you remove the first...  After you remove the first snap ring, press the bearing off. As stated before, this bearing is changed to a larger 308 piece.  Now you can remove the First-speed...  Now you can remove the First-speed gear and the brass stop ring. Be careful to remember the direction of the gears so you can return them to the correct position.  The second snap ring is now...  The second snap ring is now visible and should be removed.  After removing the second...  After removing the second snap ring, the first and second clutch sleeve and the Second-speed gear can be removed. Make sure to keep everything in order, facing the correct way. Instead of telling you how it went, let's just do it . . . Finish up by reinstalling the exhaust, and then take it for a spin. At 65 mph, the tach on the Valiant was holding steady at 3,500 rpm. Literally at the touch of a button, the tach dropped to a reasonable 2,400 rpm. The Gear Vendor unit may seem a little pricey to some, but the reduction in noise, engine wear from the higher rpm, and the increase in fuel mileage makes this a good move for the Valiant. Think about it-you can keep your close gear-ratio four-speed, fairly steep gears in the rear, and still drive your car. How does it hold up to abuse? We're about to find out! I was told there are several race cars with over 1,000 hp using this thing at the track with nary a problem. Try that with your factory aluminum-cased, wide-ratio four-speed.  Now, remove the third and...  Now, remove the third and final snap ring.  Here, you can see the difference...  Here, you can see the difference in the long and short shafts.  The Third- and Fourth-speed...  The Third- and Fourth-speed synchronizer clutch gear and Third-speed gear can now be removed.  The bearing on the left is...  The bearing on the left is the 308, and the one on the right is the 307. As stated before, you need to replace the 307 with the 308.  After putting all the gears,...  After putting all the gears, clutch sleeves, stop rings, and bearings back in place, install the newly assembled longer tailshaft into the intermediate housing. If you already have a long-tailshaft tranny, you need not disassemble the output shaft. While installing the output shaft into the housing, with the new 308 bearing, expand the snap ring instead of contracting it as with the 307.  Remember the needle bearings...  Remember the needle bearings mentioned earlier? Once you've collected them all, reinstall them into the center of the input shaft, and give them a light coating of grease to hold them in place.  When you get the tail assembly...  When you get the tail assembly re-installed into the tranny case, replace the shift forks in their respective locations and re-install the cover plate. GV supplies the gaskets for the job. Although this image doesn't show it, replacing the output housing assembly into the case is a trying task. You must place the reverser gear at its mid-travel point and lower the Third- and Fourth-clutch sleeve half the distance of its travel in order to get the assembly started into the housing. After that, you must get the gears to align, and, when everything slides together, hope the needle bearings haven't fallen out of place.  (A) Before you go any farther,...  (A) Before you go any farther, GV recommends that there be a .005-.045-inch space when measuring between the gasket face of the housing adaptor and the splined coupler that connects to the GV unit. (B) GV supplies these spacers that fit on the tranny side in the coupler. Simply pull the coupler out of the housing, insert the required amount of supplied spacers, and reinstall the coupler.  Don't forget to install a...  Don't forget to install a tranny breather in the new housing adaptor.  The second issue with this...  The second issue with this setup is the shifter mounting location. The GV housing has locations for E- and B-Body shifters, but the A-Body shifter is between those locations.  We fabricated this bracket...  We fabricated this bracket that mounts to the rear-shifter mounting location and goes forward to where the shifter needs to mount. The bracket is made of two pieces of steel: One is 931/44x4x31/48 inches, and the other is 4x311/42x31/44 inches. The 31/44-inch piece is welded to the back of the 31/48-inch piece to space the 31/48-inch piece from the housing. Three mounting holes are then drilled through the two pieces, and the bracket is bolted to the housing. Three holes also need to be drilled and tapped in front of the rear mounting location for the shifter bracket. | RECEIPT ** | | Gear Vendors unit | $2,395 | | Mopar lube for GV | $16 | | Royal Purple for tranny | $8 | | | ($6-10 | | per qt., depending | | on vendor) | | Driveshaft shortened | | | and balanced | $90 | | TOTAL | $2,509 | | **Prices may have changed, yada, yada, yada . . . |
 It's a good thing we didn't...  It's a good thing we didn't mount our shifter bracket to the front mounting location, because it had to go. The front-shifter mount location hit the upper crossmember, and we had to remove some of it.  We only had to remove one...  We only had to remove one mounting hole and a small portion of webbing between the holes.  We also needed to lower the...  We also needed to lower the tranny mount location 51/48 inch. We cut the tranny crossmember and welded a strip of 1-inch steel on both sides. When doing this, remember to ensure all driveline angles are within spec.  With the crossmember and the...  With the crossmember and the shifter bracket made, everything fit in place.  The GV unit comes with a new...  The GV unit comes with a new yoke for the driveshaft. The yoke uses a 1350 universal joint, and our new driveshaft measures 31 inches from universal, center-to-center.  GV suggests Mopar synthetic...  GV suggests Mopar synthetic gear oil, PN P04874459. So we traveled to Lakeland Dodge and picked up a quart. It lists for $21 a quart, but the guys sold it to us for $16. For the tranny, we used Royal Purple Max-Gear lube. Ya know, the Mopar synthetic gear lube is 75W85, and Royal Purple's is 75W90. Is there really much difference other than price? According to Gear Vendors, extensive testing has been done on the Mopar lube-their recommended oil.  We mounted the GV control...  We mounted the GV control box behind the passenger-side kick panel.  GV gives you a choice of two...  GV gives you a choice of two buttons. The one with the red knob is the same as the one used in big trucks for the two-speed rear selector. The other is a Hurst T-handle with the button in it. Let's just say I ain't driving no Peterbuilt.  We mounted the main on/off...  We mounted the main on/off switch with Velcro to the heater box, out of sight. Now run all the wires to the appropriate locations per the instructions. All connections are color-coded and are simple to plug in.  The GV tailshaft housing eliminates...  The GV tailshaft housing eliminates the speedometer gear and relocates it to the GV unit. GVs include a 24-inch section of speedometer cable to make up the difference and an electronic adaptor to connect to the control box.
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