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 Press the front bearing onto...  Press the front bearing onto the input shaft, and install the snap-ring in place. Again, use the thickest snap-ring that will fit to give you the proper bearing endplay.  Pack the cluster bore, rollers,...  Pack the cluster bore, rollers, and spacers with heavy grease. The large tube sits in the center of the bore, and then two rows of 19 rollers and spacers are installed. The order of assembly consists of 19 rollers, then a spacer, then 19 more rollers, and another spacer on each side. Assembly is aided with the use of a dummy shaft.  Install the two thrust-washers...  Install the two thrust-washers copper-side in, one on each side of the cluster gear assembly. Orient the tangs up and down for installation, and hold them in place with grease.  Set the cluster assembly in...  Set the cluster assembly in the housing, allowing it to rest in the bottom of the case. install the input shaft.  Lift the cluster assembly...  Lift the cluster assembly so it meshes with the input shaft. Now the counter shaft can be installed, and it pushes the dummy shaft out of the case. Don't forget the half-moon key goes toward the back of the case. With the shaft installed, cluster gear endplay should be between .016 and .025 inch. If you have more, check the case and the face of the gear for wear, and replace as necessary.  Install a new o-ring on the...  Install a new o-ring on the reverse arm, and then put the arm into the case. Now, install the pin, reverse idler gear, and shaft with half-moon key. Make sure it all works smoothly. The idler gear points should face the rear of the case.  Put some grease in the input...  Put some grease in the input shaft, and install the new set of 16 rollers.  When you are installing the...  When you are installing the tail assembly into the main case, be sure not to knock any of the 16 input rollers out of place. Turning the input shaft helps prevent this. Make sure the brass synchro-ring is indexed properly with the synchro hub before the case is bolted to the tailhousing; otherwise, the shaft will bind. When you finally get the tail assembly into the case, snugly install two tail housing bolts, and make sure all the synchronizers and gears operate smoothly. If everything is fine, install the rest of the bolts and tighten to 50 lb-ft.  Stand the case on its face...  Stand the case on its face (input shaft side) and move the reverse idler-gear to the middle of its travel. Slide the 1/2 gear synchronizer-slider toward the rear of the trans, and the 3/4 gear synchronizer-slider forward. Be careful the 3/4 gear synchronizer slider does not fall off the hub. Install the fourth-gear brass synchronizer ring onto the cone of the input shaft. put the tailhousing gasket in place, and carefully slide the assembly into the case.  Don't forget to clean and...  Don't forget to clean and reinstall the reverse detent mechanism. Install the gasket and tighten the outer piece to 50 lb-ft. install the ball bearing and then the spring. Install the gasket is onto the cap and tighten the cap to 24 lb-ft. It should click in and out of reverse. If it does not, the ball may have fallen out. Check and reassemble.  Install the shifter forks...  Install the shifter forks in their appropriate positions.  Replace the O-rings on the...  Replace the O-rings on the shift arms coming through the side cover. Install the side cover gasket and hold the shifter forks straight. slide the cover into place. Put the tranny in reverse, hold slight-up pressure on the side cover, and snug the four corner bolts. Check the operation of each gear. if all is smooth, install the rest of the bolts and tighten to 15 lb-ft. Reinstall the bolts in the same location from where they were removed.  Install a new seal into the...  Install a new seal into the bearing retainer. place sealer on the bolt threads and on the new gasket on the retainer-to-case area. Pre-lube the seal with grease and be sure to line up the oil drainback channel in the retainer with the hole in the case. Torque bolts to 30 lb-ft. Clean and install RTV in the front seam for the countershaft to prevent seepage of gear lube down the road. This is not a huge area for leaks, but these transmissions are noted to seep here.  Here is the completed transmission....  Here is the completed transmission. If you don't feel comfortable enough doing this yourself, you can contact Passon Performance and have them do it for you. If you do decide to do it yourself, complete rebuild kits, and any other hard parts you need, are available from Passon as well.
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