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 With the bearing removed,...  With the bearing removed, remove first gear. Next, remove the snap-ring behind the synchro-hub, and then remove the synchro assembly. Finally, remove second gear.  Remove the snap-ring that...  Remove the snap-ring that holds the input bearing in place.  The counter shaft needs to...  The counter shaft needs to be driven from the front of the case, out the back. There is a small half-moon key that will fall out, (this will be replaced as well), however, make sure it is accounted for. Once this is done, the cluster gear will drop to the bottom of the case. We will be replacing the 76 rollers inside the cluster gear, so make sure they are all out of the case.  Remove the input shaft from...  Remove the input shaft from the case by tapping it into the case with a brass (not steel) hammer. Then press the input bearing from the shaft.  The detent mechanism for reverse...  The detent mechanism for reverse is located on the rear of the case and needs to be removed.  You need to press the reverse...  You need to press the reverse idler shaft out of the case. A little ingenuity and a C-clamp works here. When the shaft is out, remove the reverse arm. Now thoroughly clean all the parts and the case. Inspect all the gears, sliders, forks, hubs, keys, and shafts for excessive wear and damage. Check synchro teeth points and sides for rounding. Synchronizer assemblies should be disassembled, cleaned, and inspected as well. These should be kept separate, as the parts are similar but not identical, and could get mixed up. The strut key springs should be offset when reassembled, not installed into the hubs oriented identically to each other. Damage to the strut keys and other components will occur if they are installed incorrectly.  Sand the synchronizer cones...  Sand the synchronizer cones on each gear with 120-grit paper to remove any glazing that has occurred, and then thoroughly clean them. Check gear cones for wear. This is done by installing a new brass synchro-ring onto the gear and trying to turn the gear while applying slight down-pressure. If the ring grabs the gear and forces it to turn as well, the gear is in good shape. Grease all the bores in the gears. install second gear, the brass synchro-ring, and then the 1/2 gear synchro-assembly. Be sure to index the synchro ring to fit properly against the hub. It may sound confusing, but it is simply a reverse assembly from when you disassembled the shaft.  Install the snap-ring to hold...  Install the snap-ring to hold this portion of the shaft assembly in place.  Install third gear, the accompanying...  Install third gear, the accompanying synchronizer ring, and the 3/4 gear synchronizer. install the snap-ring to hold it in place. Again, be sure to install the synchronizer ring properly so the ring indexes the hub correctly.  On applications using a 307...  On applications using a 307 bearing, put the large snap-ring on the shaft, then press the rear bearing onto the shaft. On the backside of the bearing, there is a groove for a snap-ring in the shaft. Use the thickest snap-ring possible; this is necessary for proper bearing endplay. (These are included in the rebuild kit from Passon.)  Before reassembling the tailhousing...  Before reassembling the tailhousing assembly, make sure you clean the housing and install a new tail bushing and seal. Press out the old bushing and install a new one. The oiling hole in the bushing should be located at the 4 o'clock position to line up with the oil channel in the housing.  When installing the shaft...  When installing the shaft into the tailhousing, the large snap-ring needs to be either expanded or contracted (depending on the bearing size). slid the assembly into the housing until the bearing bottoms out. Release the snap-ring into its groove.
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