Other than better fuel economy, why would someone want to change from an automatic to a manual transmission? Well, for many, a real musclecar has to have a stick, but there are some real advantages too. More power is delivered to the rear wheels-automatics rob 15-25 percent of that precious resource we work so hard to make. That lost power is turned into another form of energy-heat, which is stored in the transmission fluid. The transmission fluid is pumped to the radiator's trans cooler to be cooled. Manual transmissions, due to their inherent high efficiency, do not rob enough power to even require an oil cooler and thus, produce less heat. Modern manual transmissions are lighter in weight compared to the automatic with its large fluid capacity and related system components. Finally, there is less maintenance with the new manual transmissions-they are inherently simpler than automatics and require less money to maintain. Only the clutch and release bearing require maintenance, and that's getting easier.
The recipient of this conversion is a red '69 SuperBee owned by Tom Nowatzke of Whitemore Lake, Michigan. His car is a factory 383 column-shifted automatic. It now features a 452 stroker with a Six-Pack, aftermarket floor shifter, and a Chrysler 8 3/4 differential with 3.55 gears. He sent his car to Keisler's facility in Knoxville, Tennessee, for the conversion. We found out the conversion is basically a bolt-in operation.
Attach the new hump to the...
Attach the new hump to the tunnel using the fastening method of your choice. We used rivets for this installation. Afterwards, seal the seam above and below the floor.
Prime and paint the new hump...
Prime and paint the new hump to keep it from rusting. Note the flat shelf, which provides an area for the reproduction shifter boot to attach. Also paint the bottom side. Unlike the four-speed hump, this approach provides more foot-well space and a clean, nearly-symmetric appearance.
The Keisler-supplied, needle-roller...
The Keisler-supplied, needle-roller pilot bearing fits into the automatic torque converter recess. No drilling or machine work is needed, and it works with every crank on the market.
As part of the warranty validation,...
As part of the warranty validation, the bellhousing-to-crankshaft alignment must be checked and recorded. This keeps the crankshaft and transmission input shaft running in alignment with each other. If the alignment is out of spec, the straight dowel pins are removed and replaced with offset dowel pins made by Mopar Performance, Lakewood, and Moroso. Keisler carries these and a low-cost dial indicator set, in case you don't have one.
The supplied flywheel, pressure...
The supplied flywheel, pressure plate, and disk are installed. It is important not to over-torque the bolts and to use the alignment tool to center the disk to the crankshaft, so transmission installation will go smoothly.
Using a measuring tape and...
Using a measuring tape and ruler, determine the distance from the clutch pressure-plate fingers to the face of the bellhousing. This will be used to determine the initial setting position of the hydraulic bearing.
This is the hydraulic throw-out...
This is the hydraulic throw-out bearing assembly set up on the front bearing retainer of the transmission. The depth from the bearing face to the transmission face should be 1/8 inch less than the measurement taken at the bellhousing to allow for clutch wear. Once set, the hydraulic bearing will self-adjust.
The automatic brake-pedal...
The automatic brake-pedal pivot pin is removed, allowing the brake pedal to drop out. Keisler's pedal kit does not require removing the steering column, making changeover easy.