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Mopar Electronic Ignition System - Stand By For IgnitionLow-Buck Ignition Upgrades Are Easy With Mopar Electronics From the January, 2003 issue of Mopar Muscle By Steve Dulcich Photography by Steve Dulcich
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The Mopar electronic ignition system introduced in 1972 was cutting edge in its day. While everyone else was using the ancient points-type ignitions, Chrysler scooped 'em all with the electronic unit. A magnetic pickup coil in the distributor is triggered by one of eight tips of the rotating reluctor, sending the signal to the ignition control box to fire the coil via internal transistorized electronics. It was a giant leap forward over points, which were nothing but mechanical switches handling the primary voltage of the ignition system. That was a long time ago, and the Mopar electronic ignition concept has changed little since then. As a basic ignition-triggering system, however, it just doesn't get any better. Reliability, accuracy, and high spark energy were all hallmarks of the original system, and over the years, the system has been refined with better and more modern electronics. Do you get the feeling that we kind of like Chrysler's electronic ignition?  Our points-equipped '68 'Cuda...  Our points-equipped '68 'Cuda was ripe for a low-buck ignition upgrade, so we reached into our trough of cores and harvested a factory small-block electronic distributor for a high-performance build.  Chrysler's factory electronic...  Chrysler's factory electronic distributor was state-of-the-art in its day, and as good as it gets for high-performance street applications. The plan was to strip and rebuild this tired distributor and modify it with performance upgrades in mind. Step one is removing the reluctor, which just pries up with a couple of screwdrivers. Take care not to lose the roll pin, which indexes it to the shaft.  The magnetic pickup assembly...  The magnetic pickup assembly and vacuum advance unit can come off next. They come undone by removing the four screws on the outside of the housing and unhooking the vacuum canister's advance arm from the plate. The Mopar electronic system is comprised of three key components, each of which contributes to the performance of the system. First, of course, is the distributor. The distributor's function is simply to act as a switch, sending a signal to the control unit to fire the coil, and routing the spark energy to the plug wires. Now that we've already gone through the three major players-the distributor, control unit, and coil-let's have a closer look at the distributor. As a switch, the distributor's first function is to tell the control unit when it's time to fire. This is timing, and the event occurs when one of the eight tips of the rotating reluctor comes in line with the magnetic pickup unit. Complicating things is the fact that timing has to vary under various running conditions, so the distributor has provisions for altering the timing. This function is handled by the advance mechanisms enclosed in the distributor. Two systems are employed to alter the timing: the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance. Since the signal to fire is given whenever the reluctor and pickup line up, varying the timing has to be accomplished by changing the relative positions of these two components. The mechanical advance mechanism uses centrifugal weights controlled by springs to rotate the reluctor forward relative to the pickup. The vacuum-advance mechanism uses a vacuum diaphragm to pull the pickup unit, mounted to a pivoting plate, back relative to the reluctor. In a high-performance application, the mechanical advance is the most relevant, since at wide-open throttle, there's no vacuum, so you won't see any vacuum advance. Performance-tuning a distributor mainly involves getting the mechanical advance optimized. There are two characteristics to a conventional mechanical advance system, which boils down to "how much?" and "when?"  To remove the shaft assembly,...  To remove the shaft assembly, the roll pin at the retaining collar is punched out with a pin punch. Don't lose the thrust washer shims under the collar.  The shaft assembly with the...  The shaft assembly with the centrifugal-advance mechanism will now pull out of the housing.  The length of the slots on...  The length of the slots on the mechanical advance plate (pointer) determines how many degrees of mechanical advance the distributor will deliver. In a high-performance application, it's typically desirable to shorten the amount of mechanical advance so more initial advance can be dialed in while keeping the total (max) mechanical advance constant.  The shaft is comprised of...  The shaft is comprised of two pieces, which must be separated to disassemble the mechanical advance mechanism. A small hard-to-get-to wire retainer inside the upper shaft is spread open while the advance plate is levered upward.  Most factory advance plates...  Most factory advance plates are stamped on the underside with the number of degrees of advance they deliver in distributor degrees. The plate in our distributor was stamped 15, meaning it provides 15 distributor degrees at full advance, which equates to 30 degrees at the crank. In our case, if we set up our small-block for full mechanical advance in the neighborhood of 35 degrees total-typically about ideal for max power-we would have only 5 degrees BTDC at idle, much less than ideal for a big-cammed small-block.  We wanted to run about 15...  We wanted to run about 15 degrees of initial advance (at idle), and have the engine timed for 35 degrees total (at full mechanical advance). That means the distributor needs to provide 20 degrees of mechanical advance instead of the 30 in the factory plate. To shorten the mechanical advance, the slots need to be shortened. The slots in our plate measured .480 inch long. We zapped the ends of the slots with a MIG welder to get some of the advance out of our plate. "How much?" is the maximum amount of mechanical advance the mechanism delivers. Performance engines like a certain amount of advance through most of the upper operating range, usually referred to by tuners as the amount of "total" advance. Typically, Mopar engines respond best with between 35 and 40 degrees of total advance, depending on the combination. The "total" advance is the sum of where the timing starts, the initial timing setting at idle, plus the amount the mechanical advance mechanism adds in. Stock engines don't need a lot of initial advance to provide smooth idle and good off-idle acceleration without detonation, and typically run initial timing near TDC (top dead center). By contrast, a hot-cammed street sweeper often needs 15 degrees or more just to idle cleanly. If both engines run best with 35 degrees "total," the stocker, starting at 5 degrees initial, will need way more mechanical advance in the distributor mechanism to get to 35 degrees "total" than would a hot mill idling with 15 degrees initial (10 degrees more, to be exact). Setting up the amount of mechanical advance comes down to figuring out what the desired (or required) initial timing setting needs to be, then limiting the mechanical advance to the value required to achieve the optimal total setting. The second part of the mechanical advance mechanism to consider is the rate at which the advance comes in. This is the function of the advance springs. Stiffer springs bring the advance in more slowly, while lighter ones let the advance come in sooner. The springs answer the question of "when?"  We installed a new cap and...  We installed a new cap and rotor as well as a new O-ring left over from a Fel-Pro engine rebuild kit. The total cost of the rebuild was next to nothing, but this distributor will go toe-to-toe with any high-performance sparker in a hot street application.  Our gorgeous rebuilt distributor...  Our gorgeous rebuilt distributor was destined for our ugly 318 in the '68 Barracuda fastback we recently acquired. The car still had the stock points ignition. Although the engine combo is still mild, serious mods will be coming later, so the distributor's curve was set up with what's to come in mind.  We needed to convert to electronic...  We needed to convert to electronic ignition. The first step was to mount the control unit. We had this racy Mopar Performance high-performance orange-box control unit that Hot Rod magazine's Steve Magnante flipped our way. There are many theories on what is best, but often the mistake is to go too quick with the advance rate. Some springs are so light that the mechanical advance will start to swing in at idle rpm, which can cause real driveability problems, erratic idle, or the engine nosing over and stalling when the rpm drops and the engine suddenly loses a fistful of timing at idle. Detonation can also result from too much timing too fast. Considering that in a performance application the engine flashes against the converter over 2,500 rpm, or much higher in a racier car, a super-quick advance curve gains little, if anything. On the other hand, the factory setup feeds in additional timing rather slowly in the high-rpm range-well beyond the point where the "total" should be. What is best for your car depends upon the combination, although a rule of thumb is to have the advance start a few hundred rpm over idle speed and reach full advance by 2,500 rpm or so in a typical street car-higher if it detonates. The curve is easy to map with a timing light and tach. While the distributor handles the switching and routing chores, it has little to do with the spark energy. This is the primary function of the control unit and ignition coil combination. The control unit affects the amount of primary energy and saturation time to the coil, which influences its output. There are a variety of Mopar Performance ignition-control units available for specific levels of performance and rpm. Ultimately, it is the coil's job to generate the voltage that goes to the spark plugs. A high-performance ignition coil is worth considering in a performance ignition, particularly as demands of rpm and compression go up. Be aware that some race coils are not suitable for prolonged low-rpm street use. Our recently acquired '68 Barracuda's 318 was sparked by a stock points ignition. Suffice to say that it was one of the first items on the hit list in upgrading this machine. We had stacks of the stock production distributors on hand, and decided to dissect one for a full performance rebuild. Eventually, we plan on beefing up this 318 with a set of ported iron heads, and a big cam and induction combo, so the advance was modified accordingly. Even in a stock-for-stock exchange, electronic ignition offers the kind of reliable, long-term performance that a points ignition can never match.  The welds were dressed with...  The welds were dressed with a mini sanding disc, and the slots were cleaned up with a machinist needle file to .370 inch.  The distributor parts were...  The distributor parts were cleaned with carb cleaner, and we were ready to rebuild. Typical replacement parts include the reluctor and magnetic pickup, and vacuum canisters-all of which are readily available through retail auto parts sources. Distributor bushings can be had from Chrysler, if required. For our build, we replaced the reluctor, pickup, and canister with some nice units we already had lying around.  The advance mechanism goes...  The advance mechanism goes together first, starting with the weights and springs. Stock distributors come with a light spring, which controls most of the curve, and a heavy spring which has an extended eye, keeping it out of operation until about two thirds of the advance is in, and slowly releasing the rest up to 4,500 rpm. We ran the stock light spring, but replaced the heavy spring with the lightest one from a Mr. Gasket kit. Installing the advance plate completes the advance mechanism. Lube it where it fits over the shaft, and don't forget the nylon spacer below or the wire retaining clip above.  The shaft assembly is lubed...  The shaft assembly is lubed and installed in the housing. Remember the thrust washer between the two. Reinstall the retaining collar and pin, along with the thrust washer(s). The endplay should be between .003 inch and .017 inch, and can be adjusted with different or additional thrust washers. The shaft should turn freely, and have no noticeable side-to-side slop.  Vacuum-advance canisters vary...  Vacuum-advance canisters vary considerably in the amount of vacuum advance they will provide. Many factory units were stamped with the max advance value in distributor degrees on the arm. We sifted through a pile we had stacked up over the years, and decided upon a 6.5-degree can, which adds a modest 13 crank degrees at full vacuum advance.  Finish the rebuild by installing...  Finish the rebuild by installing the reluctor, pickup, and vacuum canister. The reluctor is slotted with two keyway slots, with an arrow corresponding to distributor rotation indicating which to use. Remember, clockwise for small-blocks and counterclockwise for big-blocks. Set the gap between the reluctor and pickup to .008 inch to .010 inch with a non-magnetic feeler gauge. We had fun and saved some dough tricking out our salvaged sparker, but if you'd rather just bolt one on ready to go, Mopar Performance offers these gems brand new as conversion kits, including the wiring harness, ballast, and control box, or as individual components at a reasonable cost. Either way, when it comes to Mopar ignition systems, the factory stuff packs a lot of performance.  The engine was cranked around...  The engine was cranked around to 10 degrees BTDC with the rotor pointed to the No. 1 plug wire, then the distributor was unbolted and removed.  Our "new" high-performance...  Our "new" high-performance electronic distributor was bolted in with the rotor facing the same way as the old distributor, and the housing aligned so that the No. 1 terminal location was in line with the rotor, and one of the reluctor tips was in line with the pickup unit.  We got a new electronic ignition...  We got a new electronic ignition wiring harness from Mopar Performance, PN P3690152. While we know guys like Bolig can get intim-idated by wiring, this conversion is really simple. The harness has five wires, and the control unit has only four pins. Cut off the green/red-striped wire, which is the unused wire. That leaves just four wires. Two are used for the plug that hooks to the distributor, so there are really only two wires to worry about. The black/yellow-striped wire goes to the coil (-), and the blue/yellow-striped wire goes to +12v ignition to power up the control unit.  The stock coil was replaced...  The stock coil was replaced with an ACCEL performance piece. The hookup on the (+) side uses the same wire as the old points ignition. For the (-) side, the black/yellow-striped wire from the control unit is used.  The ballast resistor was swapped...  The ballast resistor was swapped to a Mopar Performance P5206436, a companion piece for Mopar's electronic ignition, replacing our 30-year-old stocker (left). It fit in the stock location. The power feed wire for the control unit can be tapped right off the feed (power in) side of the ballast. Typically, the feed side of the ballast has two wires-a brown ignition start wire and a dark blue ignition run wire. We just added the feed wire (blue/yellow-striped) to the control box with a new terminal here.  The rock-hard flea market...  The rock-hard flea market spark-plug wires that were on the car were tossed, and we cut a set of custom ACCEL 8mm SuperStock ignition wires to finish off our ignition upgrades. With a total investment of an afternoon's fun, and precious few bucks, we replaced our feeble points ignition with a hot high-performance ignition that will go years without a second thought.
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