The fuel tank in the Valiant has been in the car since it was built. As such, it's hard to say what kind of debris and gunk has attached itself to the metal inside. Sure, there are ways to clean a fuel tank, but when we noticed a leak, we knew the time for a new one was upon us. The problem with simply replacing the old tank with a new one is the original feed line out of the tank is only 5/16 inch. Feeding any kind of high-horsepower engine with that size line is asking for trouble. Another downfall is the fuel is sucked from the front of the tank. Fuel starvation during hard acceleration is an issue we wanted to avoid. To best solve the issue presented by a stock fuel system, we ordered a new fuel tank from Year One and a universal fuel-tank sump kit from Competition Engineering. The task of installing a rear fuel sump to any fuel tank requires welding and modification. If you are not comfortable with welding to your fuel tank, seek professional help. For those of you that do feel comfortable, please make sure to take the appropriate measures so there is no explosion while welding if you are using the old tank.
Having a modified fuel tank is only half of the equation. You need to get the fuel from the tank to the engine. Several companies make aftermarket fuel pumps, and deciding which one is right for your application requires you to plan what the demands on your fuel system are. We were not in need of a full-boogie, Pro-Stock-style fuel system, so we ordered a Holley "Blue" fuel pump. The Holley pump comes with the required fuel regulator, and will sufficiently feed a strong running street mill. The Blue pump will free-flow 110 gallons of fuel per hour at 14 psi. Since the 14-psi rating will overpower the needle and seat assembly in the carburetor, Holley also supplies the needed fuel regulator with the pump. We could have simply bent up some steel line and rubber hose for the connections, but we wanted the finished system to look like we knew what we were doing. Earl's, a division of Holley, has just about every fitting and hose you would need to install a complete fuel system in your Mopar, and we decided to give them a try. Before you order parts for your fuel system, it is a smart idea to draw a picture of the system you plan to build and write down the part number of every fitting you will need. Simply trying to play it by ear and hope for the best will result in a lot of phone calls to get more fittings and down time for your car. Now that we gave you our rendition of why and who, let's get to the meat and potatoes of doing it.

To cut the hose, you first...

To cut the hose, you first need to measure where it will be cut and then wrap it with masking tape. This will keep the ends from fraying as you cut it with a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Next, slide the collar over...

Next, slide the collar over the hose-after you remove the tape. A little WD-40 can help.

Now, simply screw the other...

Now, simply screw the other half of the fitting into the collar. You want to leave a distance of about one thread thickness between the collar and the insert when tight.

We installed a breaker and...

We installed a breaker and cut-off switch in the trunk of the car. The switch and breaker are mounted inside the battery box.

The fuel regulator was mounted...

The fuel regulator was mounted to the engine underneath the alternator. The inlet comes up from the bottom, and you can see the aluminum hard line previously installed ready to be connected.

Earl's has this handy fitting...

Earl's has this handy fitting that connects a hard line to their flexible-braided line. Simply slide the collar over the hard line, put the rubber sleeve on, and tighten to the soft line fitting.

Next, run your fuel line from...

Next, run your fuel line from the regulator to the carb. We ordered an aluminum dual-feed line with an outlet out the back. The second outlet will feed the fuel solenoid for the nitrous. Make sure when you route your fuel line up the front of the engine to keep it away from moving parts.]

The outlet at the back of...

The outlet at the back of the carb feed-line is plumbed with -4 line to the fuel solenoid.