So you want more power, but you like the streetability of a compression ratio that allows you to pull into any gas station, and a camshaft with a duration that lets you engine purr like a kitten. Well, Paxton's blow through supercharger kit for 383 and 440 Wedge engines, PN 1201860-1 satin or PN 1201860-1P polish finish, is probably just what you need. The Paxton kit is based around the oil fed, spur-gear-driven Novi 1500 centrifugal supercharger. Under normal driving conditions, this supercharger is designed to operate at 7-9 p.s.i when equipped with a standard 3.875-inch diameter 10 pound drive pulley. Depending on the actual condition of the engine and boost level being used, horsepower gains can be quite notable.
Here's what our 440 Mopar...
Here's what our 440 Mopar big-block looks like before we began our installation. Other than a set of Mopar Performance finned-aluminum valve covers, and an Edelbrock intake, it's basically stock.
The Novi 1500 supercharger comes standard with the aforementioned 10-rib diameter pulley, although other pulley sizes are optionally available. Also included in the kit are Paxton's twin-billet-aluminum supercharger mounting plates, which feature an integrated manual drive-belt tensioner and alternator mounting provisions. The actual supercharger drive-assembly features a black anodized, six-inch diameter billet-aluminum crank pulley and a 10-rib supercharger drive belt with spacer. This bolts up to the OE two-groove crankshaft pulley and balancer using the provided mounting hardware. Ducting consists of a four-inch inlet duct complete with silicone hoses, stainless-steel band clamps, and a conical air filter. There is also a 3.5-inch aluminum discharge tube, and an aluminum race-type bypass valve with tube and mounting flange. Finally there's a cast-aluminum carburetor "hat" used instead of the conventional air box like the one used on Paxton's 120851/120852 small-block Mopar supercharger applications; a necessary compromise due to space limitations under the hood.
First step? Out comes the...
First step? Out comes the radiator. Since the OE fan will NOT be re-used, Paxton Automotive Corporation recommends the use of a twin fan aftermarket cooling module rather than the stock radiator.
With forced induction, a "boost-referenced" carburetor is an absolute must. For this particular application, a number of carburetors were tried but ultimately, Paxton technicians settled on a Quick Fuel Technology Q-750-BAN/750-cfm blow-through carburetor equipped with annular boosters.
Fuel pressure must also remain constant, so a high performance electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator is also required. Paxton also recommends the use of an aftermarket ignition amplifier to not only maintain optimum spark, but also protect the engine from over revving. And lastly, although not shown in these prototyping photos, an aftermarket puller fan or fans is recommended, since the OE fan blade will have to be removed.
It's highly doubtful that...
It's highly doubtful that your car is already running a blow-through prepped carburetor, so you will have to replace it.
"The hardest part about any retro-fit kit is the fact that factories weren't all that consistent when it came to their accessory-drive engine brackets, etc." says Paxton engineer Bob Andress. "Through our R&D program, we have found that there are a number of different style pulleys, alternators, and water pumps used on these early Mopars, which makes building a universal-fit kit like this one quite a challenge. Andress continued. "You also have the issue of all the aftermarket mounting brackets and engine pulleys that are available on the market. Taking into consideration the that most of our Mopar Big-Block customers are street machine enthusiasts-as we doubt that many concours restorers will want to install one of these kits-we've tried to make it as "user friendly" as possible, but those owners with modified Mopar big-blocks MIGHT have to use a little bit of imagination!"*
So, our test vehicle was filled with 91-Octane fuel, and strapped to the dyno. Our baseline test produced the following rear-wheel power numbers; 285 horsepower at 5,300 r.p.m., and 314 lb/ft of torque at 3,000 r.p.m. These numbers are very typical of a basic rebuild of a 440, and just about what we expected. After we added the Paxton kit and fed the big block 5-1/2 pounds of pressure, the power jumped to 417 horsepower at 5,300 r.p.m., and 417 lb/ft of torque at 4,400 r.p.m. No bad for a universal bolt on.
*Note: These photos show the prototyped 440 system. Installation procedures may differ with the production system. Be sure to follow the Paxton installation manual you get with your kit.
To assemble the crankshaft...
To assemble the crankshaft pulley, a total of six bolts are inserted through the counter bored holes on the pulley spacer and through the factory water pump pulley and into the engine balancer using liberal amounts of blue Loc Tite. These bolts must be tightened in a crisscross pattern.
Next, six 5/16-18 bolts are...
Next, six 5/16-18 bolts are used to install the 10-rib supercharger-belt pulley onto the adapter, again using liberal amounts of blue Loc Tite.
To drain the supercharger's...
To drain the supercharger's lubricating oil back into the oil pan, Paxton supplies this fuel pump block off plate with barbed fitting. You need to upgrade to an electric pump anyway, and this makes returning the oil to the crankcase very easy.
Installation of the kit's...
Installation of the kit's mounting bracket comes next, and is accomplished by attaching the bracket to the now-unused alternator mounting hole in the head, and points on the water pump housing. Note in this picture that the alternator is relocated to the bottom of the bracket. In some cases, the wiring may need to be lengthened.
Setting up the belt tensioner...
Setting up the belt tensioner plate is next. First comes the installation of the tensioner adjustment screw, tensioner arbor and locater block. The installation of the idler pulley comes next. At this juncture, the jam nut is left loose enough to allow for final drive-belt adjustment to be done later.
The tensioner plate is then...
The tensioner plate is then connected to the main mounting bracket.
Prior to installing the supercharger...
Prior to installing the supercharger on the bracket, hook up the oil drain-back line, routing it to the fitting you installed at the fuel pump location. It's easier to do it now, instead of after the supercharger is installed.
After connecting the drain...
After connecting the drain back hose, lower the supercharger into the mounting plate, and bolt it fast.
No connect the oil feed line...
No connect the oil feed line fitting and oil feed line. On our big block, we tapped into the pressure areas at the back of the block, above the camshaft.
Next is the installation of...
Next is the installation of the factory accessory-drive v-belt and the tightening of the alternator.
The air intake tube is installed...
The air intake tube is installed next.
Don't forget, when using forced...
Don't forget, when using forced induction on a carbureted system, you MUST have a carburetor that is designed as a blow-through carburetor.
Now install the supercharger...
Now install the supercharger bypass-valve to the air discharge-tube, and then the air discharge tube to the air hat on the carburetor.
Heading into the home stretch,...
Heading into the home stretch, now install the 10-rib drive belt and adjust the tension.
Once installed, the kit is...
Once installed, the kit is a clean looking installation, and will add just enough power to definitely get you into trouble if you want to.