The torque converter is unbolted...
The torque converter is unbolted from the flexplate, uncoupling the trans from the engine. A prybar on the starter ring prevents the converter from turning while undoing the bolts, and can also be used to lever the engine around to access the next bolt.
The trans in our car came without part throttle kickdown. Found in most '71-and-later transmissions, the part throttle kickdown feature allowed the trans to shift down from Third to Second under part throttle load, as in normal acceleration coming out of a turn, or after slowing and reaccelerating. Without this feature, the trans will remain in Third, even accelerating from very low speeds, unless the throttle is nearly floored, bringing in the full-throttle kickdown, and usually First gear. Newer valvebodies had a sophisticated part throttle kickdown system and a specific valvebody. An earlier, simple version of this system was most commonly found in six-cylinder 904 trans applications in the early '60s to mid '70s, which uses an extra throttle plug and housing. These pieces can be fitted in the earlier non-part throttle kickdown 727 valvebodies to give part throttle kickdown. Just replace the existing shift-valve end plate with the donor downshift plug and housing and it's done. We robbed the pieces from a six-cylinder '70 Duster's 904 at the boneyard, and the trick worked perfectly.
Next month, we'll cover the install of the torque converter and provide our seat-of-the-pants results.
 Next, the trans can be unbolted...  Next, the trans can be unbolted at the mount. Leave the crossmember in place for now. |  The filter is held to the...  The filter is held to the valvebody with three screws. Pull the filter to gain access inside. |  At the back, the shift and...  At the back, the shift and kickdown linkages, speedo cable, and neutral safety switch wiring are freed. |
 A quick and dirty technique...  A quick and dirty technique for supporting the rear of the engine for trans removal is to jack the trans slightly and place a block of wood between the steering center link and pan. The actual weight is not that great. |  Next, the jack is moved under...  Next, the jack is moved under the trans (it will balance towards the front of the pan), and the trans-to-engine bolts are wrenched out. |  Back underneath, the crossmember...  Back underneath, the crossmember is removed and the trans rolled back and lowered. Balance the unit, make sure it is well secured to the jack, and take care not to allow the trans to tip forward and drop the torque converter out (nothing is holding it in). |
 Out and ready for the fun...  Out and ready for the fun to begin. |  We moved our trans to the...  We moved our trans to the bench, and began by draining the sump-a messy job since the factory never included drain plugs. We'll add one before it goes back in. Don't panic if you see some metallic particles and friction material in the sump; a certain amount is normal. |  Before the valvebody can come...  Before the valvebody can come out, the shift and kickdown levers are unclamped and slid up off their shafts. Now's the time to replace the case seal if it's leaking. |