Disc Brake Conversion - A Binding Proposition

Here is a closer look at the supplied washer/spacers from the SSBC kit.

Making sure you have the proper shims means the pads should be in place for the adjustment. The pads can be purchased at any auto parts store by asking for FMSI pads D-11. We wish that number was for a Mopar application, but they are actually '65- '67 Mustang pads.

Now install the new rubber brake line and horseshoe clip. If the hose does not fit in the body-mounted bracket, take a small file and put a flat spot in the brass on the hose to match the flat spot in the bracket.

Next, change the master cylinder. Unhook the pedal to the master-cylinder arm by removing the bolt under the dash.

Then remove the four master-cylinder mounting bolts at the MC, unhook the line, and away it goes.

Once you have the new master-cylinder bench bled, it's time to hook it to the old brake system plumbing. This will require plumbing into the factory distribution block on the frame and adding this proportioning valve. Without using this valve, it is impossible to properly bias the front/rear brake operation. In other words, the front brakes may lock up before the rear ones even begin to work.

After you have all the lines connected, you will need to bleed the brakes. If you don't have a vacuum pump, a friend can pump the brake pedal for you while you work the wrench or vice versa.

When all is installed, don't simply get in the car and jump into traffic without first testing the brakes. Try your new system out on a back road with no traffic and see if they work safely. Heck, even do a few "panic" stops. Then you can hit the road.

For us, a big selling point for SSBC's A-153 kit is that the stock 14-inch Rallye wheels can be used.