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 18 In order to properly "adjust"...  18 In order to properly "adjust" the Shaker's under-structure, use 2x4 blocks to raise the piece off the floor, and then use a small hammer or mallet and a block of wood to "adjust" the areas that need it (usually around the bends or radiuses).  19 After adjusting the Shaker's...  19 After adjusting the Shaker's under-structure, reinstall the brace with your sheetmetal screws and see if the gap is closed. If so, it can be clamped around the flange ring.  20 Once again, clamp the...  20 Once again, clamp the Shaker's under-structure in place with vise grips and use sheetmetal screws to help keep it snugly in place.  21 To fill in the gap around...  21 To fill in the gap around the ring and the topside of the hood, we used lead to fill the seam before we weld the under-structure in place. This will allow the metal to move around. Most folks would use another type of filler and that's ok.  22 Use a foam-type glue under...  22 Use a foam-type glue under the hood's bracing to eliminate the oil-can effect in the hood skin.  23 Before you install the...  23 Before you install the Shaker under-structure for the last time, seam seal around the flange ring and clean the areas that need to be spot-welded. Also, apply adhesive foam to the parts of the brace that are closest to the hood skin.  24 Before the Shaker's outside...  24 Before the Shaker's outside ring can be installed, you will need to smooth the rough castings on it. A skim coat of body filler works well for this.  25 After the brace is reinstalled...  25 After the brace is reinstalled for the last time with the screws, put the trim ring on to check the gaps once again.  26 Now spot-weld the Shaker's...  26 Now spot-weld the Shaker's under-structure where it touches the flange ring and plug-weld everywhere else. Make sure to cool the welds, and keep them spaced far enough apart to keep the hood from distorting.  27 After the welding is complete,...  27 After the welding is complete, the hood may need some minor bodywork. Remember, you just cut a large hole in the hood, so a small amount of body filler may be required.  28 After the rough bodywork...  28 After the rough bodywork is done, spray the hood with epoxy primer, lightly scuff it, and then spray it with a high-build primer. Don't forget about the underside where the plug-welds are.  29 Once you have the fillers...  29 Once you have the fillers smoothed to a perfect end, it's time for paint. As you can see by looking across the hood, it's impossible to tell it was originally a flat hood.
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