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 6 Use a metal scribe or pick...  6 Use a metal scribe or pick to mark the outside of the flange ring.  7 After you have your scribed...  7 After you have your scribed line completed, use 1/4-inch masking or painter's tape to the inside of the scribed line to mark the cut line. The cut line will be the thickness of the width of the tape to the inside of the scribed line. Part of the flange ring will eventually overlap the hood skin on the underside.  8 We used a cutoff wheel...  8 We used a cutoff wheel to start our cut opening and then switched to an air saw. The saw is more accurate and causes less heat. Remember, cut to the inside of tape. When you finish cutting the hole, use a metal file to smooth the burs from the opening's edge.  9 You will need to clean...  9 You will need to clean the area around the opening on the underside. Use a cleaning wheel or sandpaper wheel to clean the rust off. Do not sandblast because this could cause the metal to warp.  10 Be sure to use a metal...  10 Be sure to use a metal conditioner/rust neutralizer to help prevent rust from coming back.  11 Before any welding can...  11 Before any welding can begin, stand the hood upright to relieve any stress on the metal around the cutout. Now you can put the underside hood ring back in place.  12 To put the underside ring...  12 To put the underside ring in place, measure from side to side in the same places as before you cut to center the ring.  13 Now gently clamp the flange...  13 Now gently clamp the flange ring in place. When you clamp the ring in place, clamp by starting at the top center and clamp outwards (down both sides) to prevent any "bubbles" or high spots. We used a "pinch" spot welder, but there are many ways to attach the flange ring. You can glue it in place, plug-weld it, or tig-weld it. But do not weld the ring in solid because the heat from steady welding will warp the hood.  14 put the hood back on your...  14 put the hood back on your support stands, top side down. We used a body hammer and spoon to smooth the rolled part of the factory underhood brace flat on both sides so the new shaker structure will set flush with the remaining factory structure.  15 Now you need to test fit...  15 Now you need to test fit the new under-structure again. You may have to trim the original hood structure a little to get the shaker hood under-structure to fit.  16 You will need to punch...  16 You will need to punch small holes around the edge of the Shaker under-structure in order to plug-weld it to the remaining factory under-structure. Use a 1/8-inch bit and short sheetmetal screws to hold the Shaker's under-structure in place. Notice our screws are in an area where they will not touch the hood's sheetmetal.  17 With the Shaker under-structure...  17 With the Shaker under-structure attached to the hood with the screws, check the gap around the flange ring and the hood's sheetmetal. If there is a gap, do not try to pull the gap closed because it will distort the hood skin.
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