The 'Cuda and Challenger's Shaker hood is as iconic as a wing is to a Superbird. Only available on the performance version, the Shaker hood was mounted directly to the engine of E-Bodies. Heck, why am I telling you guys this, you already know it. But did you know you can now add a factory-inspired reproduction of that hood to your flat-hooded 'Cuda and/or Challenger?
Scott Smith of Harm's Auto is a true Mopar enthusiast, who says, "Our shop strives for 100-percent accuracy in everything we do." We decided to put that statement to the test. For the last few years, we have been promoting the Young Guns part of this hobby, bringing younger enthusiasts into our world. Well, Matt Gaisbacher is one such enthusiast, and we thought if a Young Gun could do this install, anyone should be able to, right?
So we contacted Scott and found he did not develop a one-kit-fits-all design for his Shaker conversion. Scott and the guys knew that if they were going to do this, they had to do it right, and just like the factory, the 'Cuda and Challenger Shakers are body specific. This means if you order a 'Cuda Shaker, it will fit your 'Cuda.
But what about installing the Shaker? Would the kit be easy enough for anyone to install? Would you need a body shop to do the work for you? It depends on your ability. If you tend to farm out your paint and bodywork, then your shop could easily handle this hood modification. If you do your own bodywork, something like this should present no problem for you.
When putting it to the test, we let a 16-year-old young man do the install. Now Matt is not your standard-issue enthusiast, he and his dad have been building Mopars for quite a few years, so he has some knowledge about bodywork. follow along as this Young Gun's 'Cuda gets to Shakin'.
1 Before any cutting can...
1 Before any cutting can begin, you need to fit the underhood brace. Lay the structure in position and trace out the outer edge of the brace with a marker. Do not cut on this line. You will need to cut to the inside of it, approximately 1 1/2 inches. This removes the bracing where the new structure goes and leaves some of the old structure to weld to.
2 Next, you'll need to use...
2 Next, you'll need to use a combination of a cutoff wheel and, possibly, a reciprocating saw to remove the part of the factory under-structure where the new under-structure will be installed.
Be careful not to cut through...
Be careful not to cut through the outer hood skin
3 After the cutting of the...
3 After the cutting of the under-structure is finished, use a hacksaw blade to cut the glue that holds it to the hood's outer skin. Only cut the glue under the part of the factory brace that is being removed.
4 Now you can use either...
4 Now you can use either a scraper or putty knife to remove the factory glue that remains on the hood's skin.
5 flip the hood over so the...
5 flip the hood over so the top side is up. Lay the Shaker's flange ring on top of the hood and center it from side to side. Use measurements given in the instructions to measure from the back of the hood. Challengers and 'Cudas are different. Also use weights to hold it in place, no clamps.
6 Use a metal scribe or pick...
6 Use a metal scribe or pick to mark the outside of the flange ring.
7 After you have your scribed...
7 After you have your scribed line completed, use 1/4-inch masking or painter's tape to the inside of the scribed line to mark the cut line. The cut line will be the thickness of the width of the tape to the inside of the scribed line. Part of the flange ring will eventually overlap the hood skin on the underside.
8 We used a cutoff wheel...
8 We used a cutoff wheel to start our cut opening and then switched to an air saw. The saw is more accurate and causes less heat. Remember, cut to the inside of tape. When you finish cutting the hole, use a metal file to smooth the burs from the opening's edge.
9 You will need to clean...
9 You will need to clean the area around the opening on the underside. Use a cleaning wheel or sandpaper wheel to clean the rust off. Do not sandblast because this could cause the metal to warp.
10 Be sure to use a metal...
10 Be sure to use a metal conditioner/rust neutralizer to help prevent rust from coming back.
11 Before any welding can...
11 Before any welding can begin, stand the hood upright to relieve any stress on the metal around the cutout. Now you can put the underside hood ring back in place.
12 To put the underside ring...
12 To put the underside ring in place, measure from side to side in the same places as before you cut to center the ring.
13 Now gently clamp the flange...
13 Now gently clamp the flange ring in place. When you clamp the ring in place, clamp by starting at the top center and clamp outwards (down both sides) to prevent any "bubbles" or high spots. We used a "pinch" spot welder, but there are many ways to attach the flange ring. You can glue it in place, plug-weld it, or tig-weld it. But do not weld the ring in solid because the heat from steady welding will warp the hood.
14 put the hood back on your...
14 put the hood back on your support stands, top side down. We used a body hammer and spoon to smooth the rolled part of the factory underhood brace flat on both sides so the new shaker structure will set flush with the remaining factory structure.
15 Now you need to test fit...
15 Now you need to test fit the new under-structure again. You may have to trim the original hood structure a little to get the shaker hood under-structure to fit.
16 You will need to punch...
16 You will need to punch small holes around the edge of the Shaker under-structure in order to plug-weld it to the remaining factory under-structure. Use a 1/8-inch bit and short sheetmetal screws to hold the Shaker's under-structure in place. Notice our screws are in an area where they will not touch the hood's sheetmetal.
17 With the Shaker under-structure...
17 With the Shaker under-structure attached to the hood with the screws, check the gap around the flange ring and the hood's sheetmetal. If there is a gap, do not try to pull the gap closed because it will distort the hood skin.
18 In order to properly "adjust"...
18 In order to properly "adjust" the Shaker's under-structure, use 2x4 blocks to raise the piece off the floor, and then use a small hammer or mallet and a block of wood to "adjust" the areas that need it (usually around the bends or radiuses).
19 After adjusting the Shaker's...
19 After adjusting the Shaker's under-structure, reinstall the brace with your sheetmetal screws and see if the gap is closed. If so, it can be clamped around the flange ring.
20 Once again, clamp the...
20 Once again, clamp the Shaker's under-structure in place with vise grips and use sheetmetal screws to help keep it snugly in place.
21 To fill in the gap around...
21 To fill in the gap around the ring and the topside of the hood, we used lead to fill the seam before we weld the under-structure in place. This will allow the metal to move around. Most folks would use another type of filler and that's ok.
22 Use a foam-type glue under...
22 Use a foam-type glue under the hood's bracing to eliminate the oil-can effect in the hood skin.
23 Before you install the...
23 Before you install the Shaker under-structure for the last time, seam seal around the flange ring and clean the areas that need to be spot-welded. Also, apply adhesive foam to the parts of the brace that are closest to the hood skin.
24 Before the Shaker's outside...
24 Before the Shaker's outside ring can be installed, you will need to smooth the rough castings on it. A skim coat of body filler works well for this.
25 After the brace is reinstalled...
25 After the brace is reinstalled for the last time with the screws, put the trim ring on to check the gaps once again.
26 Now spot-weld the Shaker's...
26 Now spot-weld the Shaker's under-structure where it touches the flange ring and plug-weld everywhere else. Make sure to cool the welds, and keep them spaced far enough apart to keep the hood from distorting.
27 After the welding is complete,...
27 After the welding is complete, the hood may need some minor bodywork. Remember, you just cut a large hole in the hood, so a small amount of body filler may be required.
28 After the rough bodywork...
28 After the rough bodywork is done, spray the hood with epoxy primer, lightly scuff it, and then spray it with a high-build primer. Don't forget about the underside where the plug-welds are.
29 Once you have the fillers...
29 Once you have the fillers smoothed to a perfect end, it's time for paint. As you can see by looking across the hood, it's impossible to tell it was originally a flat hood.