Replacing The Dutchman Panel - A Runner Repair

Multiple pairs of locking pliers will keep the new panel from moving. They are also used on the lip near the window and on the lower lip in the trunk area. Doing this without removing the quarters would be pretty difficult. if the rust was bad enough to rot out the rear panel, the quarters will likely be shot. Remember not to clamp the vise grips too tight, as metal damage will occur.

The first welds were done along the upper edge.

A pair of locking pliers is positioned at each weld when welding and moved down the panel as the welding is done. These welds are spaced far enough apart that warpage will not be an issue.

The passenger-side edge required the center be welded first. Then, Tracy pushed down the upper edge, and Mark worked from underneath to get the final two upper welds done.

Working from underneath the trunk's edge, the eight points holding the corner in place are zapped with the welder. The finished area looks like this.

Mark is in the trunk on his back, working from the underside of the supports.

The welds are carefully done, leaving just the smallest amount of weld showing on the panel.

Using a piece of wood to keep from buckling or marring the new metal, the supports will be clamped and welded up next.

All the spots that have been welded are cleaned and smoothed. This is done by using both a large grinding wheel and a smaller grinder to finish it up.

Using the grinder, it is smoothed out and will be ready for the painter to begin his work.

Here is our final corner, with a solid bead of carefully applied weld along the edge between the two panels. The type of welding rod used here is called silicon bronze. Using the tig process will give the appearance that the part was bronzed in.

Here is our corner after tig welding. Like other sheetmetal welding tasks, take your time here. Add a little weld, let it cool, add a little more, let it cool, working from side to side. It took about an hour and a half to do the pair of corners this way.