Before you mount the EMS controller,...
Before you mount the EMS controller, run your wires through the firewall and make your connections at the engine. Retrotek recommends that you DO NOT cut or shorten the wires for the kit.
The great thing that the Retrotek kit has over other aftermarket EFI kits is its ability to "learn" the engine it's mounted on. The "Smart Tune" technology will learn the engine's needs within a couple of days driving, and it's also completely tunable if you're one of those guys that can't keep your hands off things.
The system as installed on our 360-powered Dart Sport was a bit on the rich side. The unit seemed to work ok, but you could tell that the setting was rich. the guys at Retrotek Speed designed the initial program to run a little fat because it saves people from ruining a perfectly good engine by running it overly lean. Once we got a few small details worked out, it was fine.
The small details were in no way a reflection on the Retrotek kit. In fact, the guys at Retrotek were more than helpful over the phone when we had problems. So, if you want EFI for your Mopar, and you want it to resemble a stock carbureted system, look no further than Retrotek Speed for what you need.
All engine connections are...
All engine connections are marked on the harness and simply plug in (TPS shown).
The heart of the return-less...
The heart of the return-less system is the fuel regulator, which is self-contained within the front fuel bowl. Again, simply plug in the proper connector.
Next, the Coolant Temperature...
Next, the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Our intake did not have enough ports in it to mount the sensor, so we had to tap a hole to fit. When drilling the hole, it's a good idea to put some hard grease on the drill flutes. This will keep the majority of the metal shavings from entering the cooling system and flying all over. Same goes for tapping the threads.
After threading the new hole,...
After threading the new hole, the CTS was installed, and the proper connector plugged in.
The MAP sensor (arrow) needs...
The MAP sensor (arrow) needs to be mounted as close to the engine as possible to reduce the length of vacuum hose required.
Speaking of the vacuum hose,...
Speaking of the vacuum hose, the map sensor uses a 3/16-inch inner-diameter hose, and the other end connects to the bottom nipple at the front of the EFI unit. After the install, we moved our MAP sensor to the underside of the air cleaner, which not only hid it, but also made the hose shorter, giving a quicker response.
Do not try to run your EFI-pumped...
Do not try to run your EFI-pumped fuel through a mechanical pump. You will need to remove the pump and install a block-off plate.
To mount the O2 sensor in...
To mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe, you will either need to weld an O2 bung onto the pipe or use the available Retrotek clamp-on bung. Either way, you will need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe. Even if you have a dual exhaust, the Retrotek kit only utilizes one O2 Sensor.
After we had the sensors connected,...
After we had the sensors connected, it was time to determine a good location for the EMS box. Since the wiring was long enough, we decided to mount ours under the passenger seat because the firewall area was already cluttered with the heater box and other things. When we mounted the box, we used a set of ignition box mounts that raised the box about 1/2-inch off the floor. This allows air to pass over and under the box to help keep it cool.