Mopar Heater And A/C Restoration - Making It Cool Again

Here is a part that has been recently replaced. This is the blower speed resistor. The resistor coils protrude into the airflow and are somewhat exposed to the climate. It's common for them to get rusty and break off.

You wouldn't be the first one to try to remove the blower motor by removing the three nuts on top of the housing. Instead, remove the three 1/4-inch screws from around the perimeter and then carefully pry the motor with the attached cage off the lip. Test the motor by simply applying power to the leads. Listen and check for bad bearings.

The yellow fiberglass insulation firewall pads are usually bad, and repops are not available for A/C cars. You can make one out of a non-A/C car pad or cut one from a piece of a fiberglass hood blanket that you can find under a number of car hoods. A piece of sound deadening pad from under your car's carpet could also work well.

This is the evaporator temperature control switch. It has a long probe attached to it that monitors the temperature inside the evaporator coil and will shut the system off if it starts to freeze up. The probe can be difficult to remove, but it must come out to remove the coil. Don't be afraid to pull hard.

Removing the evaporator-coil cover reveals a fairly fine screen positioned over the coil. Remove the screen to get at the coil itself. Unless it's severely damaged, just clean and reuse it.

This is why you need to remove the coil. Most have never been removed, and this one has forty years of debris behind it. If your A/C system worked fine before you took it apart, then all you should need to do to your coil is clean it and comb some of the fins. If you don't know for sure that your coil is good, it would be wise to take it to an A/C shop to have it tested for leaks. In this case, they are not available new.

The foam on the vent doors is always bad, and again, new parts are not available, but fortunately, the foam from a fuel tank pad works great.