Installing the Stillen Sport...
Installing the Stillen Sport Rotor kit is strictly an R&R operation-remove and replace. The kit comes with the cross-drilled rotors and a set of their Metal Matrix high-performance brake pads.
We made an interesting discovery with the brakes on our '97 Dakota. When the pad material on the front pads gets thin, it has a tendency to come flying off, leaving a now-bare steel backing plate to grind into the rotors. In our case, it happened two separate times, both on the expressway, and by the time we got home, the lathe-action had rendered our rotors junk.
Always looking to make the best of an unfortunate situation, we took this as an opportunity to upgrade the front discs on our Dakota. Stillen Brake Pros offers cross-drilled front Sport Rotors and high-performance Metal Matrix pads that fit our needs nicely. Cross drilled rotors offer superior stopping power due to the increased air surface created by the cross drilling, which increases the rotors' ability to dissipate heat and cool more effectively. Of course, the rotors also give a racy appearance to the truck that looks great through open wheels, so that swayed us, too.
Stillen's front Sport Rotor kits are available for Rams, Dakotas, and Durangos, and are a direct replacement for the existing components. For those who want more, Stillen also offers a Big Brake Kit employing 4- or 6-piston calipers and massive 13.7-inch cross-drilled rotors. We firmly believe that every dollar spent to go fast should be matched with a dollar spent to make the vehicle stop.
While the front disc swap on a Dakota will only take an hour or two, we spent some extra time and detailed the rotors and brake pads with POR-15, because we hate rust. You also need to know that on Dakotas, the calipers are held in place with a No. 45 Torx head bolt, so you'll need to purchase a Torx socket to fit-don't try using an Allen wrench, because you'll strip out the head. The Stillen components go right in place of the factory pieces, so there are no surprises-simply remove and replace.
 On the left is a detailed...  On the left is a detailed Stillen Sport Rotor for the '91-'96 Dakota, on the right is the front rotor for a '97-and-later Dakota. With the redesign in '97, the Dakota got a non-serviceable, one piece front hub assembly, facilitating a rotor that looks like a traditional rear rotor. The rotor on the left retains the factory spindle bearing races and seals, etc. for the '96-and older Dakotas. For that kit, you'll have to supply new seals, and bearings if you need them. |  This is the back side of three...  This is the back side of three different types of front brake pads that are available for Dakotas. The top left is the bonded Stillen Metal Matrix pad, the center is a riveted aftermarket pad, and the top right is a riveted aftermarket pad. Notice that the one on the right doesn't have the tabs on the back-when you go to the parts store, this is the one you usually get the first time, but you can't use it. You must have the clips on the back of the pads, and because the rivets that hold them on are mushroomed, you can't swap the clips from the old to the new pad. This wasn't an issue with Stillen's pads, but it's information worth knowing. |  We wanted to detail the rotors...  We wanted to detail the rotors with POR-15 so the hats and edges wouldn't rust. We began by masking off the machined surface of the rotors with masking tape. A quick and easy way to trim the tape around the rotor is with a file-just apply enough pressure to cut through the tape around the outer edges. |
 We ordered a POR-15 Starter...  We ordered a POR-15 Starter Kit from Classic Restorations to paint the rotors and pad backings. The Starter Kit is an inexpensive way to go, and came with more than enough paint to cover our needs. |  Ever know anyone who dropped...  Ever know anyone who dropped the vehicle on their legs while doing a brake job? We do. Since you have to put the wheel somewhere while working on the brakes anyway, stick it under the vehicle. That way, even if the verhicle does somehow fall off the jackstands, it won't land on you. Plus, it keeps the wheel out of your way in the garage. |  Each caliper is held in place...  Each caliper is held in place by two socket head bolts. The bolts are a Number 45 Torx tip, and you must use a Torx bit to remove them. At the time, you may think an Allen wrench will work, but it won't and you'll end up stripping out the head of the bolt. Make the $6 investment and have the right tool for the job. There isn't a lot of room, and a Torx tip screwdriver will be tight, so we recommend using a socket bit for better leverage. We got ours at Sears.In the background of the top photo, you can see the damage done to our rotors. Once you lose the actual pad material from your brake pads, your rotors are toast because you're stopping your vehicle with a lathe. The front of the rotor is much thinner than the back, indicating the caliper wasn't sliding like it was supposed to, which accounts for the front pad wearing out before the back side pad. Check all four pads regularly. |
 After removing the caliper,...  After removing the caliper, suspend it from the frame with a piece of wire or an old coat hanger. The brake line bracket (arrow) already has a hole drilled in it, and it must be intended for this because it's in the perfect spot. |  Then it's time to remove the...  Then it's time to remove the toothed clips on the wheels studs that hold the rotor hat tight to the hub assembly. We pried them up far enough to get the jaws of a side dikes to them and cut them off. |  Once the rotor is removed,...  Once the rotor is removed, depress the caliper's piston back into the bore. There is a dedicated pad spreader available, but a large C-clamp and the old pad works well. We also found it interesting that the '97 Dakota didn't have dust shields behind the rotors. |
 Replace the old rotor with...  Replace the old rotor with the Stillen piece, set the new Metal Matrix pads in place, and put the caliper back on. Make sure that the tabs are correctly in position before putting the wheel back on. |  Here's the finished installation....  Here's the finished installation. Bleed the brakes, and you're ready to go. We also lubed our calipers' slides to combat the uneven wear problem that wiped out the rotors in the first place. Detailing the rotors and pads with POR-15 will keep them rust-free and looking good for a long time, and is worth the extra work involved. The next time we have the front suspension apart, we'll detail the caliper and steering knuckle as well. Also, before anyone writes in to point it out, we had the vehicle supported by jackstands, as well as the floor jack that's visible. We weren't kidding about knowing a guy who dropped a car on his legs! | |