Rebuilding Front Suspensions With PST - Suspending Dilemma

The front strut-rod nut should always be removed first, then moved to the rear of the rod. The tapered seat at the rear of the bar keeps the bar anchored to prevent it from spinning when removing the front lock nut.

At the rear anchor of the torsion bar is a small wire retainer clip. Remove the clip to make way for removing the torsion bar.

Since we are removing the control arm, there is no need for a special tool to remove the torsion bar. just remove the lower control-arm pivot-shaft nut where the shaft goes through the K-member, and then use a large pry-bar to wedge the lower control arm back. The torsion bar will slide back with the arm, and out of the socket at the rear crossmember. The control arm can then be tapped forward and off the bar.

If the pitman arm is going to be replaced, a large heavy-duty puller will be required to get it free of the steering box. The idler arm simply bolts to the K-member, and the steering linkage can be removed as an assembly.

Next, we stripped the lower control arm, pushing the pivot shaft out of the bushing from the back. The bushing shell will remain fixed to the shaft, but it is easily removed by striking it with a chisel, at 90-degree intervals along its length.

We cleaned and painted the arm, and then pressed in the shaft and fresh bushing. With a new bumpstop and the torsion-bar adjustment hardware installed, it was ready to go back in.

The upper ball joints screw into the control arm, and require a special socket to remove. Be prepared-they are tight.

To remove the upper control-arm bushings, we use a 1/2-inch jackscrew as shown. The large pipe fitting to the left receives the bushing as it is pressed out, and is ground with a step to clear the flange at the edge of the control arm. The socket at the right pushes against the bushing as the screw assembly is tightened with a 31/44-inch drive impact wrench.

Installing the new bushings is done with a similar arrangement, this time using a large socket to the inside of the arm to clear the bushing as it comes through.

The upper control arm was bolted in with the new camber bolts from the PST kit, and swung up out of the way. Next, the strut rod was bolted to the lower arm, loaded with the rear half of the bushing, and the lower control arm was angled into position and bolted up. Finally, the lower ball-joint assembly was bolted in place.

Since we were planning on making a drag car out of this 'Cuda, we opted for Competition Engineering's three-way-adjustable drag shocks, which we set to 90/10, for the greatest rate of front suspension rise.

Installing the steering linkage is very straightforward; just install the pitman and idler arms, followed by the center link, and then the tie rods. We liked the new heavy-duty tie-rod sleeves from PST.

With the suspension resting down against the bumpstop, and the front anchor of the torsion bar clocked against a fully unwound adjuster screw, the torsion bar should align and slide in easily with some light hammer taps from the rear.

For now, we just reinstalled our stock drum brakes, finishing the suspension rebuild job. We confess to be itching to upgrade the brakes before putting the car back on the road or track.