It's a scenario that happens all too often. For weeks, or perhaps months, you plan a transformation for your favorite Mopar by significantly increasing its horsepower. Maybe you are installing a shopping cart full of high performance goodies on your existing mill or swapping it for a more potent powerplant. Perhaps you're going to extremes and stuffing a wild 440 into an engine bay once occupied by a Slant Six. Regardless of the recipe you've concocted, you spend days performing the work and still more time tuning and extracting performance from your new combination. As time passes, your tweaking pays off. Your car is now running better than it ever has. Then it happens, you're blasting down the road and the Generic Motors piece in the next lane has disappeared from your side mirror and is now visible only in your rearview. Your Mopar is pulling strong and sounding great. But just when it seems all is right with the world, a truck enters the roadway in front of you. Instantly your foot snaps from the carburetor's secondaries and pummels the brake pedal. What a time to find out your antiquated drum brake system is no longer up to the task of safely stopping your ride.

If this has ever happened to you (and you survived), you've probably considered some brake system upgrades. Factory-style disc brakes might seem the most logical choice. but what cars would be suitable donors, and how involved would such an operation be? Follow along, and we'll guide you through. Though we'll cover the steps necessary to convert A-, B-, and E-Bodies to disc brakes, we'll concentrate on the A-Body for this transplant, as it is a bit more involved than a B- or E-Body swap.

There are two different disc brake configurations found on A-Bodies. The earlier style-offered as optional equipment through 1972-was the four-piston Kelsey-Hayes setup. The second style-used from 1973-1976-was the single piston slider-type caliper used with 10 7/8-inch rotors. Both styles used 14-inch wheels. If you're after an original appearance, then use the four-piston style. It uses the same control arms and upper ball joints as the drum brake setup, and will allow you to retain the 4-inch lug circle of your drum brake car. Keep in mind the lower ball joint is different. This setup will look original on a pre-'73 A-Body, however, parts tend to be expensive and hard to find.