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1970 Chrysler Suspension Rebuilt - Putting on a Good FrontA C-Body gets new front brakes and suspension From the November, 2010 issue of Mopar Muscle By Dave Young Photography by Dave Young, Kevin Shaw
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Since our '70 Chrysler 300's... Since our '70 Chrysler 300's suspension and brakes hadn't been touched since they were installed from the factory they gave us quite a fight, so we fought back with brute force. when all else fails, get a bigger hammer! After driving our Hurst edition '70 Chrysler 300 for a while, we realized that stopping this beast was becoming something of a task. While the braking system did stop the car, it was beginning to pull to the right and was making a grinding noise that clearly told us our brakes needed help. The problem is there is not much aftermarket support for Chrysler C-Bodies, so our options were limited. We did find that Stainless Steel Brakes makes a rear disc conversion for the 83/4 rearend, so we ordered the kit and installed it in last month's issue. For the front, however, our options were sparse. If our car was originally equipped with drum brakes we could get an upgrade kit, but our Chrysler had factory discs, and we didn't necessarily want to change to drum spindles due to the rarity of this vehicle. Since no one makes an upgrade kit for our application, we were limited to rebuilding the factory disc brakes but dreaded trying to find parts. You know the story, you go to the local store and ask for pads and caliper rebuild kits, they ask if the car has air conditioning, you ask why that matters, then they say they don't have the parts. We've been down this road before. Of course, we're assuming the local parts store's computer goes back to 1970, some don't. In any case, our research led us to a great source for braking systems out of Charlotte, North Carolina, called Brake Tech Solutions. With more than 25 years experience designing and rebuilding braking systems, Brake Tech Solutions can either provide the O-rings, pads, and hardware to do the job yourself, or they offer full-service rebuilding of your entire brake system. They can also custom design brake systems for older cars that have no aftermarket support, like ours. This is a good shot of our... This is a good shot of our front brakes prior to being rebuilt. As rusty and old as they were, we were skeptical that any of our components could be re-used, but after an overhaul by Brake Tech Solutions they were looking and performing like new. During the inspection of our Chrysler's front end it was apparent that our front suspension was worn, and that new bushings, tie rods, and ball joints would need to be installed. A quick call to Just Suspension confirmed they had the parts we needed in stock and, once ordered, they arrived in a couple of days. Since our car is fairly rare, and we don't want to stray too far from factory installed hardware, plus we'd be busy with the front-suspension overhaul, we opted to have our factory disc brakes overhauled by Brake Tech Solutions. When we say they are a full-service brake restoration center, we mean full service. When we contacted them and told them what we had, they stated we just needed to remove the front brakes, spindles and all, and they could perform all the work and return the brakes in about two weeks. We must admit we were initially skeptical about the two-week turn time, especially with Christmas looming around the corner, but we removed our brakes and shipped them to Brake Tech for an overhaul. Before you remove any parts,... Before you remove any parts, don't forget to loosen the tension on the torsion bar. After removing the caliper and rotor, the spindle is removed by loosening the two bolts attaching it to the lower ball joint, then removing the upper ball-joint retaining nut (shown here) before separating the two with a ball joint separator (commonly known as a pickle fork). Even during the holiday season Brake Tech Solutions had our front brakes back to us in less time than we thought possible, and the quality of their work was apparent. The brakes didn't look rebuilt, they looked new. Not only were the calipers completely overhauled and coated, new rotors were included, as well as new flexible brake lines, wheel bearings, and all the hardware necessary to complete the job. They even cleaned, inspected, and coated our spindles prior to sending the parts back to us for installation. We have performed brake overhauls ourselves, but have been burned in the past by not having the necessary equipment to repair all the parts. An example of this is the calipers. Inside the caliper is one (as in ours) or more pistons, usually made from aluminum that fit into the steel bore of the caliper. Much like the pistons and bores of an engine, the bore of the caliper will become worn or corroded, and the seal will no longer keep the fluid inside the caliper. While in most applications a new caliper can be obtained, in older vehicles like ours, new parts may not be available. In the absence of new calipers there is only one solution. The caliper's bore must be machined to clean up the damage, the oversize pistons and seals are installed, or the bore is sleeved back to its original size to fit the factory pistons and seals, which is the preferred method. Brake Tech has the tools and equipment to repair calipers and re-sleeve them if necessary. They can even take it a step further and install stainless-steel sleeves so corrosion will never again be an issue. We were impressed, not only with the quality of their work and the short turnaround time, but also with their professionalism and their general knowledge of Mopar braking systems. It's nice to know there are companies as dedicated as we are to keeping these old Chryslers on the road. With our front brakes removed... With our front brakes removed and sent out for overhaul, it was time to overhaul the front suspension. All the components were installed with castellated nuts and cotter pins for safety. Be sure to remove all the cotter pins prior to attempting to remove the retaining nuts. We had trouble seeing some of ours due to years of accumulated grease and dirt. We began our job by removing the spindles and brakes and shipping them out to Brake Tech for overhaul. While we waited for our parts to return, we tackled the car's front suspension, removing the parts to clean and inspect them prior to installing the new suspension components. As with any 30-some-year-old car, we had the standard fight on our hands. Dousing the hardware liberally with Royal Purple's Max Film penetrating oil a day prior to completing the work certainly helped free the rusted hardware, and a high-power impact wrench didn't hurt either. Aside from a tie-rod/ball joint separator, a ball joint socket, and a pitman arm remover, only standard hand tools were needed to remove the suspension components. Just Suspension, knowing that ball joint sockets are somewhat of a specialty tool, included one in our suspension rebuild kit. Replacing the control arm bushings does require a hydraulic press, but if you don't have one and still wish to do the work yourself, simply remove the components and take them to a shop to have the new bushings pressed in. They'll charge you for the labor, but not nearly what they would charge to do the job completely. We were finishing up the suspension job just about the time our brakes showed up, so we bolted the brakes back on, bled the system, and were back on the road. Loosening the torsion bar... Loosening the torsion bar adjusting bolts takes the tension off the front end, allowing the torsion bars to be removed and the lower control arm bushings to be replaced. How did our new brakes perform? While we'd love to give you before and after stopping distance numbers, we really can't. Our brakes were in such poor condition that we could have improved stopping distance simply by cutting holes in the floorboards and stopping Fred Flintstone style. Instead, we chose a real world driving test and took our Chrysler to the test track known as Interstate 4 in central Florida. This stretch of road is always packed with vehicles weaving and jockeying for position, much like a Formula One race. It seems everyone is in a hurry, and if you leave a car length of space in front of you, two cars will try to fill it, cutting you off. Those of you who have driven this road know what we mean. While we generally avoid this road while driving our classic cars because of its propensity for accidents, we took the Chrysler onto the interstate during rush hour traffic and were surprised at how comfortable we felt with the new brakes installed. Our Chrysler was maneuvering and stopping like cars half its size and weight, and gave us confidence we had only dreamed of before performing this upgrade. We now look forward to many miles of driving this car without worrying that we can't stop if someone brake-checks us in traffic. Not bad for a couple of weekends of wrenching!  The upper control arms are...  The upper control arms are now removed by taking out the alignment adjustor bolts giving us access to the bushings. From the looks of ours, they were long overdue to be replaced.  After removing the cotter...  After removing the cotter pins and castle nuts, a tie-rod separator is used to force the tie-rod ends from the lower ball joints and center link of the steering. The center link is then removed from the idler and pitman arm in the same manner. The idler arm can now be removed from the K-member.  The pitman arm can now be...  The pitman arm can now be removed by utilizing a pitman arm puller. This is a nice tool to have around if you regularly do suspension work, if not, it can usually be rented from your local auto parts or tool rental store.  After giving our control arms...  After giving our control arms a thorough cleaning, the upper ball joints are replaced using a ball joint socket and an impact wrench. Remember that ball joint threads are cut with a small amount of interference, which keeps them locked in place so it's normal for them to be tight when removing and re-installing them.  We painted our control arms...  We painted our control arms to keep them looking good, and used a press to remove and install the upper and lower control arm bushings. If you don't have a press, just take the control arms to a shop that does. It takes less than an hour to replace all the control arm bushings so the price for the labor should be reasonable. Fortunately, we had a press and did the job ourselves.  Factory tie-rod sleeves are...  Factory tie-rod sleeves are known to flex during aggressive driving. Just Suspension designed these heavy-duty units to eliminate that problem. Side by side with the stock tie rod sleeves, the difference is dramatic.  With our new bushings installed,...  With our new bushings installed, we re-installed our suspension components, tightened the retaining nuts, and installed the provided cotter pins for safety. Always get the components snug, and then tighten the nuts until the cotter pin will line up. Never loosen a suspension component for cotter pin alignment; accelerated wear will be the result.  This is what Brake Tech Solutions...  This is what Brake Tech Solutions had to start with. Upon receiving our brakes, they completely disassembled, cleaned, and inspected our components before rebuilding them. Believe it or not, they have resurrected parts in far worse condition than ours.  Once cleaned and inspected,...  Once cleaned and inspected, our calipers were packed with new pistons, seals, and bleeders and were ready to ship. Severely corroded calipers can be machined and sleeved if necessary.  This is how we received our...  This is how we received our overhauled brakes from Brake Tech Solutions. The difference is amazing. they included all new wheel bearings, dust seals, flexible lines, and hardware necessary to complete the installation. With our suspension components overhauled and re-installed, it was time to re-assemble our front brakes.  The first re-assembly step...  The first re-assembly step is to mount the spindle. Simply slide the spindle onto the upper ball joint and place the nut on to hold it in place, then insert the two bolts that hold the spindle to the lower ball joint. Don't forget to install the sheetmetal dust cover at this time, and be sure to install cotter pins once everything is in place and tightened.  To pack wheel bearings, place...  To pack wheel bearings, place a liberal amount of grease on the palm of one hand, then hold the bearing's inner race tight against the bearing's rollers, creating a larger gap on one side. Now push the bearing into the grease with the larger diameter side down, forcing grease into the bearing assembly. Rotate the bearing and repeat this procedure until grease comes out the top of the bearing, indicating that it is completely packed.  Prior to installing our rotors,...  Prior to installing our rotors, we give them a cleaning in the parts washer to remove any oils that are on them. Rotors are usually coated in oil as a corrosion inhibitor, and it needs to be removed so it doesn't impregnate the pad, which will cause degraded performance of the braking system. If you don't have a parts washer, just spray them with brake cleaner before installation.  Rotors are retained by the...  Rotors are retained by the spindle nut, which is held in place with a cotter pin. We generally snug the spindle nut until we feel slight resistance when spinning the rotor, then back the nut off, aligning the cotter pin and allowing the rotor to spin freely.  With the rotors in place,...  With the rotors in place, the calipers can now be installed. Our brake pads are symmetric, but some applications do have an inner and outer pad, so make sure you get them placed correctly. Take precautions to ensure grease and oil don't contaminate the pads or rotor during installation.  Our new flexible brake lines...  Our new flexible brake lines are now installed with the provided copper gaskets on the caliper side. The line is then placed through the mount in the frame and held in place with a C-clip. The hard line can then be connected, sealing the front brake system from outside contaminants.  We now fill the system with...  We now fill the system with quality DOT 3 brake fluid and bleed the brakes beginning with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Check the fluid level often during this process because if you let a reservoir get pumped dry you'll ingest air into the system and have to start over. It helps to have a friend or family member in the car pumping as you open the bleeders to allow trapped air to escape. Continue bleeding until all air is out of the system and the brake pedal is firm. Keep an eye out for leaks during this process as well.  With our brake system bled,...  With our brake system bled, we use the alignment adjustors in the upper control arms and tie rods to get the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop for a four-wheel alignment. After aligned, the car drove like new. Our new brakes and suspension components made a huge difference in the car's ride and handling, and gave us the confidence that we could now maneuver with more modern cars even in rush hour traffic--not bad for a couple of weekends of work.
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